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The last "exploded" picture was taken at the end of the full disassembly, which was done throughout this tech article.
Field-Strip & Firing Assembly:
Shocker RSX markers use a push-button latch to release the firing assembly. Pressing the release button located on the frame's backside will allow an internal spring to pop the firing assembly out from the marker body, at which point it can be pulled directly out. If the assembly doesn't immeditely pop out, use your fingers to overcome the friction, after which point it should pop free.
Shocker RSX markers use a push-button latch to release the firing assembly. Pressing the release button located on the frame's backside will allow an internal spring to pop the firing assembly out from the marker body, at which point it can be pulled directly out. If the assembly doesn't immeditely pop out, use your fingers to overcome the friction, after which point it should pop free.


The firing assembly is removed as one piece, revealing the fire chamber and bolt sleeve. Unscrewing the items from one-another will expose the bolt itself, which is contained inside the housing components. When performing regular cleaning and maintenance, apply grease to the bolt's o-rings and other areas of the bolt seen in the picture below.



Further disassembly of the firing internals is not required, but the below picture shows the internal arrangement. A small rubber bumper is contained within the quickrelease housing, which seals against the rear end of the bolt when idle.


Eye covers & Detents:
Use an allen key to remove the eye cover screws, allowing the eye covers to fall away from the marker body. There shouldn't be any loose parts as the eyes are contained within milled notches in the body, while the detents are held on the eye cover inside surface. The eye cover screws are supposed to be fitted with tiny o-rings to prevent them from falling out from the eye covers, but they can still be removed if you aren't careful.
During regular cleaning and maintenance, paint splatter should be removed from this entire area, and the detents should be cleaned as best as possible. Use Q-tips to swap away any built-up splatter or grease. Compressed air can also be used (if available) to carefully blow contaminants out of the area.
Use an allen key to remove the eye cover screws, allowing the eye covers to fall away from the marker body. There shouldn't be any loose parts as the eyes are contained within milled notches in the body, while the detents are held on the eye cover inside surface. The eye cover screws are supposed to be fitted with tiny o-rings to prevent them from falling out from the eye covers, but they can still be removed if you aren't careful.

Frame removal and circuit boards:
The marker's grip frame contains its circuit board and protects the remaining internal components which attach to the marker body underside. To remove the grip frame, first remove the grips and battery then disconnect the circuit board plugs.
The marker's grip frame contains its circuit board and protects the remaining internal components which attach to the marker body underside. To remove the grip frame, first remove the grips and battery then disconnect the circuit board plugs.



The marker body and frame can be separated from one-another by loosening the two frame screws on the body underside, shown below. Once the screws are removed, the grip frame can be CAREFULLY slid off the frame's internals if the circuit board's plugs have been disconnected. Caution must be used to not snag any of the internal wires leading through the grip frame when pulling them apart.




The trigger is retained using a pair of pointed set screws aroud which the trigger pivots. Loosen both set screws and the trigger will slide out. When isntalling the trigger, the two set screws must be tightened simultaneously as to suspend the trigger in the middle of the frame. The trigger will bind and not swing correctly if the set screws are tightened too far against one side or the other.






Solenoid manifold, bolt latch, and eye wires:
After grip frame removal, the solenoid and manifold are accessible on the marker body underside. This area of the marker doesn't need regular service unless a leak has developed. To remove the manifold, loosen the two screws holding it against the marker body as seen in the picture below. The manifold cannot be separated from the marker body while the eyes are installed, so they must also be removed from the marker body (eye covers must be removed first). Carefully unthread the eyes through the body milling when separating the manifold.
After grip frame removal, the solenoid and manifold are accessible on the marker body underside. This area of the marker doesn't need regular service unless a leak has developed. To remove the manifold, loosen the two screws holding it against the marker body as seen in the picture below. The manifold cannot be separated from the marker body while the eyes are installed, so they must also be removed from the marker body (eye covers must be removed first). Carefully unthread the eyes through the body milling when separating the manifold.




The manifold consists of a QEV portion toward the front of the marker (yellow brass tube) and the solenoid valve located toward the rear of the marker (with wires attached). The QEV can be removed by pulling out the small metal clip at the front. The solenoid is contained using a pair of screws which can be loosened to expose the solenoid. Multiple o-rings and seals are located throughout the assembly, each of which could be the source of a leak if damaged.
The solenoid itself cannot be disassembled to repair leaks. Unlike some other solenoids used in different markers, the MAC spool valve is contained within its housing and cannot be serviced. The entire assembly must be replaced to fix a leaking solenoid.




The bolt's quickrelease latch assembly can be removed from the mrker body after loosening the pair of screws from the bottom.





Feedneck:
The feedneck clamps onto the marker body using a boss-latching method similar to that used by Eclipse and Empire markers. While not identical, Empire feednecks are also compatble with Shocker RSX marker bodies.
The feedneck clamps onto the marker body using a boss-latching method similar to that used by Eclipse and Empire markers. While not identical, Empire feednecks are also compatble with Shocker RSX marker bodies.


ASA adapter:
Shocker RSX markers use a relatively simple ASA adapter that relies on a threaded knob to actuate the tank. The ASA knob can be unscrewed from its housing anytime, at which point the o-ring retainer can be removed using an allen key through the middle. Once the internals are removed, the ASA's two screws can be loosened and removed, allowing the ASA housing to separate from the marker's grip frame.
Shocker RSX markers use a relatively simple ASA adapter that relies on a threaded knob to actuate the tank. The ASA knob can be unscrewed from its housing anytime, at which point the o-ring retainer can be removed using an allen key through the middle. Once the internals are removed, the ASA's two screws can be loosened and removed, allowing the ASA housing to separate from the marker's grip frame.



Regulator:
The Shocker RSX regulator is contained within the foregrip, built directly into the marker body. The regulator internals can be removed using allen keys at which point the yellow brass piston can be seen within the foregrip; the piston is removed using a bent dental pick or by slamming the piston out from the foregrip using your hand. The remaining internals are also removeable using an allen key.
The Shocker RSX regulator is contained within the foregrip, built directly into the marker body. The regulator internals can be removed using allen keys at which point the yellow brass piston can be seen within the foregrip; the piston is removed using a bent dental pick or by slamming the piston out from the foregrip using your hand. The remaining internals are also removeable using an allen key.




