This includes problems relating to leaking issues, or general shooting problems. Please refer to the other Troubleshooting guides if necessary, for information about electronics repair and other issues.
Listed are the gun's symptom along with a series of possible causes, and how to remedy them. The possible causes are in a specific order, more likely first with the less likely causes lower down the list. When diagnosing problems, you should try each item listed in order.
Let it first be said that a lot of problems can be solved by a good cleaning and greasing. Please refer to the Related Links section for maintenance guides.
The solenoids click, but the marker doesn't fire a ball.
· Replace the battery (common).
· Verify that your fire pulse isn't set too quick.
· Clean and regrease the fire piston.
· Increase the input pressure to the marker (while not exceeding 200-psi).
· Verify that the 3000 solenoid's endcap (fire solenod; the solenoid in front) is installed correctly. Below is a picture that shows the endcap, which has a line. This line must face the Shocker body; if it faces away from the body then the marker won't function.
· Pressurize the marker and actuate the 3000 solenoid using the white manual override button located on top of it. If the marker fires a large burst of air, it's likely an electronics or firing assembly problem. If the marker doesn't fire when manually actuated, the solenoid is damaged and would need to be replaced.
Velocity dropoff during rapid fire.
· Clean the regulator (most common) and firing assembly.
· Lengthen the fire pulse to allow more pressure to fire the marker.
· Increase input pressure.
· Replace the battery.
Air is continuously released as soon as the marker is pressurized.
· Verify that the 3000 solenoid's endcap (fire solenod; the solenoid in front) is installed correctly. Below is a picture that shows the endcap, which has a line. This line must face the Shocker body; if it faces away from the body then the marker won't function.
The solenoids click, but the Shocker bolt doesn't move.
· Increase the input pressure to the marker (while not exceeding 200-psi).
· Verify that the 4000 solenoid's endcap (bolt solenod; the solenoid in rear) is installed correctly. Below is a picture that shows the endcap, which has a line. This line must face the Shocker body; if it faces away from the body then the marker won't function.
· Pressurize the marker and actuate the 4000 solenoid using the white manual override button located on top of it. While being actuated, the bolt should hold open. When the button is released the bolt should close and stay there. If this doesn't happen then there's likely a solenoid problem and it'll have to be replaced.
· Remove the bolt assembly and verify that the bolt tip moves freely back and forth like it should. If it does then the bolt or electronics are to blame; if not then the bolt itself is damaged in some way. You'll have to disassemble it to narrow the problem down, or purchase a new (or used) bolt assemby to replace it.
Leak down the barrel.
· Clean and regrease the two o-rings located on the fire piston. It's recommended to replace them (the front is a 11/90 whereas the rear is a 11/70).
· Clean and regrease the second-from-front outside o-ring on the fire piston housing (18/70). Replacement is recommended.
· The brass fire piston seat down in the body may be damaged, or the 11/70 o-ring around it may be worn out. If this is the case you'll have to remove the brass seat, inspect it for damage, and replace the o-ring if needed.
Leak from the Max-Flo adjustment endcap.
Leaks out the adjustment endcap can appear gradually after you fire a shot or be a constant leak of pressure. Same problem for both of these. The following seals can cause this symptom, and should be cleaned.
· Inner base seal in the reg base (9/90). It's recommended to replace this, use no grease.
· Piston o-ring (14/75); clean and regrease, replace if necessary.
Regulator Honk. aka regulator squeek.
Same issues as the leak from adjustment endcap problem directly above.
Regulator output pressure creep.
Same issues as the leak from adjustment endcap problem directly above.
Leak from the 4000 bolt solenoid (rear solenoid).
· Remove the solenoid from the body and clean its gasket. Replace if possible (if you have a spare). Reinstall the solenoid and gasket without using grease.
· Clean and regrease the 4000 solenoid spool's o-rings.
· Clean and regrease the middle outside o-ring on the bolt piston housing.
· Disassemble the bolt assembly and replace the large o-ring located on the piston ram (11/70).
· At this point the solenoid gasket is likely to blame.
· The solenoid screw threads in the body may be stripped.
Air continuously leaks from the air assist hole (right side of the Shocker body).
· Clean and regrease the 4000 solenoid spool's o-rings.
· Clean and regrease the middle outside o-ring on the bolt piston housing.
· Disassemble the bolt assembly and replace the large o-ring located on the piston ram (11/70).
· Replace the solenoid.
Leak from the 3000 fire solenoid (front solenoid).
· Remove the solenoid from the body and clean its gasket. Replace if possible (if you have a spare). Reinstall the solenoid and gasket without using grease.
· Clean and regrease the 3000 solenoid spool's o-rings.
· Clean and regrease the fire piston's o-ringas as well as the outside o-rings on the fire piston housing. Replace the o-rings if possible.
· At this point the solenoid gasket is likely to blame.
· The solenoid screw threads in the body may be stripped.
When you fire, an air burst vents from the rear of the bolt knob.
· This is normal.
When you fire, an air burst vents from the air assist hole (right side of the Shocker body).
· This is normal. Do not plug this hole.
When you fire, multiple air bursts vent from the underside of the marker body. (solenoids and surrounding ports)
· This is normal.
Related Links:
· Troubleshooting general electronics problems
· Marker matinenance guides
· Setting electronics and pressure