This page encompasses the marker's circuit board, power source, solenoids, and associated parts.
Circuit board:
The Shocker's electronic control board is located at the front of the circuit housing, held in place using a pair of 2-56 thread screws.
The connector at the rear of the board is for the solenoid wire connector, which are soldered to the solenoid coils then insulated using non-conductive glue to prevent the wires from pulling off. Your board might look different than the one above.
There were two versions of the stock board, older DS and newer LS. DS boards were used from 1998 to early 2000 whereas LS boards were used from late 2000 to 2002.
· DS (dome-switch) board: These are older boards and use a more simple adjustment and operation. These don't have a built-in powerswitch so you have to unplug the battery to turn the marker off (note that you can install a custom powerswitch with some drilling and soldering). DS boards use DIP switches to adjust using combinations of switch positions. DS boards didn't have an indicator LED, however there was a low battery red LED at the front of the marker (this tends to blink when you turn the board off, due to the loss of power). DS boards only work with DS triggers, which have a noticeable "hump" on them.
DS boards were available in three types: 4x4, Turbo, and S/F (pictured above). 4x4 boards were the standard semiauto-only board which came stock. Turbo boards appear the same as 4x4 boards but they include a special ramping mode called Turbo mode, which increased your ROF up to the ROF cap once you start shooting 5-bps. This is controlled by the bottom switch in the left DIP switchbank (turning it on enables Turbo mode). S/F boards (aka. select fire boards) use a large toggle switch out the front of the board to control additional firing modes. The center position is semiauto, right is three-shot burst, left is fullyauto. Both three-shot and fullyauto will fire at 10-bps. Some S/F boards are also programmed with Turbo mode, meaning when you select semiauto using the firing mode toggle switch, you can then activate Turbo mode using the DIP switchbank, but I've found that not all S/F boards are programmed with it.
· LS (lever-switch) board: These boards were produced after the turn of the century and are more reliable and advanced. LS boards are faster and easier to adjust, and also feature a slide powerswitch on the left side of the marker as well as a green/amber indicator LED right in front of it. These boards were adjusted using screwdriver potentiometers (adjustable resistors) and could be set to a higher maximum speed than the older DS boards. LS boards work with LS-style triggers, which are compatible with Impulses as well. Aftermarket LS triggers (ones that use a firing point set screw to adjust) will also work with DS boards.
LS boards were available in two versions, 4x4 and Turbo. Like the older DS boards, 4x4's were the stock semiauto-only boards. LS Turbo boards use a large toggle switch out the front of the board (same as the old DS S/F boards). Center position is semiauto whereas left and right are Turbo mode.
The only drop-in aftermarket board for the Shocker was the KM2 Glacier board (later updated to the Glacier-AT board). This board featured an adjustable trigger microswitch (compatible with either DS or LS triggers) as well as a number of programming enhancements. It included firing modes, added adjustments, and a superbright blue LED for board indicator. The front-mounted switch was the board's powerswitch. The board is adjusted using KM2's signature trigger programming method, although it can also be adjusted using DIP switches located on the surface of the board (although the trigger adjustment is a much more fine-tuned method to control how the marker fires).
Battery:
Shocker Sports were origially designed to operate their solenoids at the manufacturer's recommended voltage (which is less than 9v for just about all markers out there). As a result the marker was designed to use a special 7.5 volt battery, commonly known as the Shocker battery pack.
The battery pack actually consists of five 1.5-v batteries which are connected in a series then shrinkwrapped together. Although it's theoretically possible to build your own battery pack, I don't recommend bothering with it (see below). A full Shocker battery pack is supposed to yield over 100 thousand shots, however the batteries will ever so slightly expire while unused, so in reality the battery life ends up being more like half, or less. Currently, several years after the last of the batteries were made, it's easy to assume even a brand new battery pack wouldn't get more than 25,000 shots.
When the Shocker battery pack runs out, you have to replace it with a new one; they're not rechargeable. However, even though the marker isn't designed for it, there's no reason why you can't use a regular 9v battery with any Shocker board available. Although the Shocker boards were meant to use 7.5-v batteries, they won't have any problem taking a full 9v. Therefore, using relatively basic soldering skills, you can rig up a quick 9v adaper using a 9v battery snap and never have to use the Shocker battery pack.
Solenoids:
The marker uses two solenoids to control the firing. They are as follows:
Parker K3H01 "3000" fire solenoid in front (straight)
Parker K4H01 "4000" bolt solenoid in rear (angled)
The solenoids are mounted to the bottom of the marker body and are connected to the board via wire pigtail. The solenoids aren't interchangeable however they are virtually identical in operation. The only difference is the design of the solenoid's internal "spool" valve, and the surrounding housing for it. Other parts can be exchanged from solenoid to solenoid.
Each solenoid uses a gasket to seal it against the marker body, and a pair of screws to attach.
Shocker Sports aren't the only marker to use this type of solenoids. The K4H01 four-way bolt solenoid was also used in the Bushmaster, Tribal, Impulse, Defiant, and variants are used in the Intimidator, Shocker SFT, and Nerve. However, you should be aware that all other markers except those made by SP used a "modified" core spring which allowed them to operate at a higher pressure. The other solenoids used a lighter spring which will leak if installed in a Shocker Sport (or other SP marker).
The K3H01 three-way fire solenoid isn't used in any other marker, however as said many parts are compatible with both (except the spools). You can actually use a 4000 solenoid in place of the 3000 solenoid, however it obviously isn't recommended for compatibility reasons.
Solenoid Wiring:
The four-point wire pigtail can be wired as described in the below picture. Each solenoid uses two wires (one red and one black) which connect to the two silver terminals on top of the solenoid coil, however the polarity of the solenoids doesn't matter. This means, as long as the correct two wires lead to the correct solenoid, the order to which you attach the wires to the coil is irrevelant.
