These are the things you'll need for a complete overhaul of your Shocker with HE bolt: assorted allen wrenches (0.05", 1/8", 1/16", 5/64", 3/16", 5/32", 3/8"), Dow/Corning 33 Shocker lube, dowel rod or other long non-metal tool, 1/8" socket or pliers if your solenoid uses the lock screws (SH0001 to SH3900 serial numbers only).
Disassembly:
The first step is to remove the firing assembly from the rear of the Shocker body. This can be done any time the marker isn't pressurized. In other words, you don't have to take the frame off, in fact you don't even need to take the grips off.
To remove the bolt internals, you must first unscrew the bolt guide using a 3/16" allen wrench.
Once you unscrew the bolt guide to the point where the threads disengage, remove it by pulling straight out the back of the body (set aside). The next step is to remove the remaining internals by pushing them out from the front. For this you will need a long, non-metal tool to push on the front of the bolt. Common things include wooden kitchen utensils, plastic stock, stiff squeeges, and others. Try to avoid using screwdrivers or other metal tools since that may mar the front of the bolt.
The bolt and sleeve will slide out the back of the body; remove them with your hand.
now use a screwdriver or other long, thin tool to push out the fire chamber in the same manner.
Maintenance:
Maintenance is simple. Use a cloth/paper towel/napkin/other to clean off the old grease and moisture from all the external surfaces. Be sure to clean as much of the bolt surface as possible. Be sure to clean the inside of the bolt sleeve; there is an internal 17/70 o-ring installed down in the middle of the sleeve.
Don't worry about cleaning the inside of the bolt, it's too hard to get in there so don't bother trying.
In the below diagram, the stock bolt's components are separated and the o-rings are colored. The tan o-rings are on the outside of components; the blue o-rings are on the inside.
Regreasing & Reassembly:
Below is my "quick method" for applying a new coat of grease onto the o-rings and reassembling the bolt in one fell swoop. This is my method that I've come to use after servicing literary hundreds of Shockers since 2004...I believe it to be most simple and fast.
Step 1. Slide the fire chamber onto the bolt, making sure it's not backwards (the two o-rings face forward, as in the below diagram). You will now apply a coat of grease to it in such a way that it will apply grease to the opposing o-rings. To do this, apply a new coat of grease all around the bolt sail o-ring (16/70), then grease the following parts of the bolt: space behind the bolt o-ring, space in front of the fire chamber, and space between the bolt o-ring and fire chamber. The grease locations are marked in this diagram:
Step 3. Slide the bolt sleeve onto the rear of the bolt, with the flared end facing backward (use the provided diagram). Now it's time to re-grease all seven outside o-rings on the assembly, before installing it in the body. Diagram:
Step 4. Push the assembly back into the Shocker body, fire chamber in front and bolt sleeve in back. Push it all the way into the body as far as it will go. Once it's installed, re-grease the two front o-rings on the bolt guide and gently slide it into the back of the body as well. Use your 3/16" allen wrench to tighten it down hand-tight. Be careful to avoid crossthreading the bolt guide threads.
A good amount of grease would completely fill the o-ring groove, with some on either side of the ring, as well as on top of it. Markers are more difficult to "overgrease" than people realize, but you should still be wary not to slop too much grease on there (if nothing else, it's a waste).
The firing assembly is now cleaned and ready to use. You can now refer to the Related Links section for regulator, solenoid, or infrequent maintenance if necessary.
O-ring Diagrams:
Related Links:
· Solenoid maintenance
· Regulator maintenance
· Infrequent parts maintenance
· Firing assembly details
· Troubleshooting Leaking/Shooting