These are the things you'll need for a complete overhaul of your Shocker with HE bolt: assorted allen wrenches (0.05", 1/8", 1/16", 5/64", 3/16", 5/32", 3/8"), Dow/Corning 33 Shocker lube, dowel rod or other long non-metal tool, 1/8" socket or pliers if your solenoid uses the lock screws (SH0001 to SH3900 serial numbers only).
Disassembly:
The first step is to remove the firing assembly from the rear of the Shocker body. This can be done any time the marker isn't pressurized. In other words, you don't have to take the frame off, in fact you don't even need to take the grips off.
To remove the bolt internals, you must first unscrew the bolt guide using a 3/16" allen wrench.
Once you unscrew the bolt guide to the point where the threads disengage, remove it by pulling straight out the back of the body (set aside). The next step is to remove the remaining internals by pushing them out from the front. For this you will need a long, non-metal tool to push on the front of the bolt. Common things include wooden kitchen utensils, plastic stock, stiff squeeges, and others. Try to avoid using screwdrivers or other metal tools since that may mar the front of the bolt.
The remaining components will slide out the back of the body.
The fire chamber should be pushed out along with the bolt; the bolt isn't supposed to come out of the fire chamber. If the bolt does come out on its own, it's not a problem but you will have to replace the front seal o-ring (15/90). If this is the case then use a screwdriver or some other long tool to push the fire chamber out from the front.
Additionally, the front "cap" of the fire chamber should come out attached to the rest of the chamber. Sometimes the cap stays inside the marker. You'll have to get it out; details for removing it can be found on the troubleshooting page.
If you're just performing some light maintenance to the gun (basic cleaning/regreasing) then skip ahead to the "maintenance" section. If you wish to perform a complete disassembly of the internals then read the fire chamber removal section directly below.
Fire chamber Removal:
During normal conditions the HE fire chamber will be stuck around the bolt. It isn't necessary to remove it for regular maintenance, but every once in a while you will want to remove it for a more thorough cleaning. However, be warned that you will need to install a new "bolt front seal" 15/90 o-ring after removing it.
To remove the fire chamber from the bolt, you must remove the chamber's front cap. Simply pull it off.
Notice the fire chamber won't slide off from the bolt due to the front seal o-ring; you will need to remove this seal in order separate the rest of the fire chamber from the bolt. This o-ring is stuck tight onto the bolt so it will be tricky to remove. I suggest using a dental pick or other sharp tool. Take care not to scratch the bolt or the bottom of the front seal o-ring groove.
Once the front bolt o-ring is off, you can slide the fire chamber off the bolt. Be careful to pull it straight off to avoid scratching the bolt surface.
I've created a quick tech video to demonstrate the disassembly. Right click and select save as (video is 1.2-MB in size).
Maintenance:
Maintenance is simple. Use a cloth/paper towel/napkin/other to clean off the old grease and moisture from all the external surfaces. Be sure to clean as much of the bolt surface as possible (this will be easy to do if you removed the fire chamber, but still can be done if they're attached). If you didn't remove the fire chamber, slide the bolt back and clean the front internal o-ring in the chamber, then clean the surface of the bolt as much as you can.
Be sure to clean the inside of the bolt sleeve. There is an internal 17/70 o-ring installed down in the middle of the sleeve.
Don't worry about cleaning the inside of the bolt, it's too hard to get in there so don't bother trying.
In the below diagram, the HE bolt's components are separated and the o-rings are colored. The tan o-rings are on the outside of components; the blue o-rings are on the inside.
Regreasing & Reassembly:
Below is my "quick method" for applying a new coat of grease onto the o-rings and reassembling the bolt in one fell swoop. This is my method that I've come to use after servicing literary hundreds of Shockers since 2004...I believe it to be most simple and fast.
Step 1. This is only needed if you removed the fire chamber during disassembly. If you left it on the bolt then skip to step 2
Slide the fire chamber rear section onto the bolt, making sure it's not backwards (the open end faces forward). Then slide a new 15/90 front seal o-ring around the front of the bolt and push it down into its groove. Once it's seated in the groove, reinstall the fire chamber front cap onto the bolt and snap it into position. Be careful that you don't pinch the 20/70 o-ring in the fire chamber. If you pinch it then you should replace it with a new 20/70. Avoid recycling 15/90 front seal o-rings since they get stretched during disassembly.
Step 2. With the fire chamber installed onto the bolt, you will now apply a coat of grease to it in such a way that it will apply grease to the opposing o-rings. To do this, apply a new coat of grease all around the bolt sail o-ring (16/70), then grease the following parts of the bolt: space behind the bolt o-ring, space in front of the fire chamber, and space between the bolt o-ring and fire chamber. The grease locations are marked in this diagram:
Step 3. Slide the bolt sleeve onto the rear of the bolt, with the flared end facing backward (use the provided diagram). Now it's time to re-grease all seven outside o-rings on the assembly, before installing it in the body. Diagram:
Step 4. Push the assembly back into the Shocker body, fire chamber in front and bolt sleeve in back. Push it all the way into the body as far as it will go. Once it's installed, re-grease the two front o-rings on the bolt guide and gently slide it into the back of the body as well. Use your 3/16" allen wrench to tighten it down hand-tight. Be careful to avoid crossthreading the bolt guide threads.
A good amount of grease would completely fill the o-ring groove, with some on either side of the ring, as well as on top of it. Markers are more difficult to "overgrease" than people realize, but you should still be wary not to slop too much grease on there (if nothing else, it's a waste).
The firing assembly is now cleaned and ready to use. You can now refer to the Related Links section for regulator, solenoid, or infrequent maintenance if necessary.
O-ring Diagrams:
Demonstrational Videos:
This video shows removal of the bolt assembly (HE, NDZ, stock), removal of the HE fire chamber from the bolt (HE, NDZ), removing and replacement of the bolt's moving o-rings (HE, NDZ, stock), regreasing the bolt as outlined in the above pages (HE, NDZ, stock), and reinstallation of the bolt assembly into the Shocker body (HE, stock).
Shocker maintenance, high-res (49-MB)
Shocker maintenance, medium-res (21-MB)
Shocker maintenance, low-res (6-MB)
Related Links:
· Solenoid maintenance
· Regulator maintenance
· Infrequent parts maintenance
· Firing assembly details
· Troubleshooting Leaking/Shooting