These are the things you'll need for a complete overhaul of your Shocker with Freeflow bolt: assorted allen wrenches (0.05", 1/8", 1/16", 5/64", 3/16", 5/32", 3/8"), Dow/Corning 33 Shocker lube, dowel rod (3/8" works good), clensing alcohol, 1/8" socket or pliers if your solenoid uses the lock screws (pre-3900 serial numbers only).
Disassembly:
Start by removing the four parts of the firing assembly out the rear of the body. Do this by removing the bolt guide first, using a 3/16" allen wrench (pictured below is the stock bolt guide).
Once you unscrew it to the point where the threads disengage, remove it by pulling straight out the back of the body. You can then insert a wooden dowel or similar tool into the bolt face to push the remaining parts out the back of the body. The fire chamber and bolt sleeve will all come out when you push on the bolt. Once you get the bolt sleeve out, you may have to pull on the back of the bolt if your tool is not long enough. Pictured below is the v1 bolt.
To get the bolt out of the fire chamber, you must first unscrew the rear endcap of the chamber from the rest. It is threaded and will unscrew off as you would expect.
Once the endcap is off, pull the fire chamber off the bolt. You must not unscrew the seal ring from the front of the bolt using a 0.05" allen wrench. There are four set screws holding the seal ring to the bolt, perpendicular to it. They are loctited in so you may wish to use heat.
Once the set screws are loose, you can push the seal ring off the front of the bolt, as well as the rear of the fire chamber.
Maintenance:
Start by cleaning off all the grease from the o-rings on the firing assembly's parts. Simply take your cloth and wipe old grease from the rings. In the below diagram, the outside o-rings are colored tan, whereas the inner o-rings are colored blue.
NOTE! Pictured above is the Freeflow v1. The v2 and v3 have the bolt's seal ring facing the other direction (o-ring in rear, set screws in front).
Below is my "quick method" for applying a new coat of grease onto the o-rings. This is my method that I've come to use after servicing literary hundreds of Shocker firing assemblies since 2004...I believe it to be easiest and fastest.
Step 1. Slide the fire chamber onto the bolt, making sure it's not backwards (on the stock fire chamber, the two o-rings face forward, as in the below diagram). Now you will grease the bolt so it will apply lube to the opposing o-rings. Apply a new coat of grease all around the bolt sail o-ring, then grease the following parts of the bolt (labeled in the following diagram). space behind the bolt o-ring, space in front of the fire chamber, and space between the bolt o-ring and fire chamber. Again, use this diagram:
Step 2. Slide the bolt sleeve onto the rear of the bolt, with the flared end facing backward (use the provided diagram). Now it's time to re-grease all seven outside o-rings on the assembly before installing it in the body, as shown in the following diagram:
Step 3. Push the assembly back into the Shocker body, fire chamber in front / bolt sleeve in back. Now re-grease the two front o-rings on the bolt guide (see the following diagram) and push it into the body. Once it's in, screw it down using your 3/16" allen wrench.
The firing assembly is now cleaned and ready to use. You can now refer to the Related Links section for regulator, solenoid, or infrequent maintenance if necessary.
O-ring Diagrams:
Related Links:
· Solenoid maintenance
· Regulator maintenance
· Infrequent parts maintenance
· Firing assembly details
· Troubleshooting Leaking/Shooting