These are some of the questions that I hear most often, pertaining to the Shocker SFT. If you wish to know more detail about one or more of the topics, consult their separate section of my site.
Please note that this is not a FAQ for electronic markers. If you are unfamiliar with terms used when describing electronic markers (dwell, input pressure, LPR, etc), then read my Electronic Markers FAQ.
General Questions:
Q: What is the Shocker NXT?
A: Check the Shocker NXT FAQ for information.
Q: What is the difference between an 03, 04, 05, 06 Shocker? How can I tell the difference?
Q: Which is better: Impulse or Shocker? Ion or Shocker? Nerve or Shocker? Matrix or Shocker? etc.
Q: What is a Shocker Sport? Is it better than the Shocker SFT?
Q: How does the Shocker SFT work? Are there any other markers like it?
Q: I heard Shockers are made from poor-quality metal. Is this true?
Q: I heard that Shockers strip threads easily because of the low-grade aluminum. Is this true?
Q: Are there any private label Shocker SFT's?
Questions Asked Prior to Purchase:
Q: Does the base/stock Shocker SFT come with a vertical regulator?
Q: What is the Shocker's ROF cap?
Q: I hear the Shocker SFT gets bad efficiency, how many shots will I get with from tank?
Q: What barrel threading does the Shocker SFT use?
Q: What are the threads on the vertical feedneck?
Q: Does the marker come with Vision?
Technical Questions:
Q: What is the best dwell setting to use?
Q: Where can I find a diagram of the o-ring sizes and locations?
Q: Can I install an LPR onto my Shocker SFT?
Q: What types of regulators can be used on the Shocker?
Q: What hopper should I buy?
Q: My Shocker gets poor efficiency, what can I do?
Q: Which solenoid do I have, old or new? How can I upgrade? Should I upgrade?
A: Basically, if you're asking "what are the differences" the short answer is nothing. The guns are essentially the same over the years with only minor changes in the exact design of parts and other small items that most people don't even notice. Therefore, for all intensive purposes, an "04 Shocker" is simply a Shocker SFT produced in 2004, etc.
The only difference is that the 2007 Shockers and later are produced with a wide assortment of upgraded parts from the ground up. Check the Shocker NXT FAQ for information about them.
If you want a complete list of the differences between the 03-06 markers, here it is.
· Bolts were originally delrin in 2003 and were upgraded to aluminum in 2004. The aluminum bolts have as much as four versions, with varying port size and bumpers (silver aluminum bolts are made to use regular o-rings as bumpers).
· Bolt sleeve material changed from aluminum to delrin in 2003, then back to aluminum in early 2005.
· Powerswitch actuator redesigned to allow LED light to shine better, also better protection against breaking the button on the board.
· Frame underwent milling changes.
· Vision eye went through some design and material changes over the years, makes them easier to remove and reinstall.
· Lower boards were upgraded to the Nerve board in late 2004. The boards have been updated a few times since then but the changes are difficult to notice.
· Upper boards have changed five times, the layout of components is the most common cause for a change. Current boards have depressions to help guard against grip screw damage, but can stil be damaged if you really "try".
· Wire harness changed to include "protrusions" which make them easier to install and remove. Also the wire gauge was decreased to accommodate the protrusion headers.
· Started installing Humphrey solenoids in the markers in mid 2005. Later on this stopped and SP went back to Parker exclusively.
· Solenoid manifold redesigned a few times, nothing major.
· Solenoid spacer screws introduced in 2004, to replace the old "lock" screws that actually screwed down onto the upper board. They were difficult to install and caused problems.
· Bolt guide switched to the "HE" style in 2004 on all shockers stock.
· Filter added to the solenoid insert early on, filter redesigned a few times, current style has a "crimped" end.
· Regulator housing and poppet guide porting has changed many times.
A: This is a matter of personal preference more then anything else. Any high-end gun will "perform" just as good as any other; most other characteristics of the marker are up to personal prefrence. The generic answer is to simply go out and shoot both markers and see for yourself. Of course if you ask this question on a Shocker forum on the internet, most of the players there will tell you "Shocker" however if you go to another forum for the other marker it will most likely be the opposite.
A: Shocker Sport is the name of the previous version of the marker, which was sold between 1998-2002. These markers are larger, heavier, have a limited rate of fire, and operate completely different internally. The Shocker Sport was discontinued in 2003 when the current "SFT" model came out.
A: Shockers are a typ of spool valve marker which use only one main moving part (bolt). In brief, the bolt acts as its own valve; what happens is internal air passages inside the bolt become open when it moves forward, then when it cycles back said passages become closed once again. You can read more about this in the Firing Assembly Theory page on this website (animations and diagrams can be found there). Similar markers include the Dye Matrix / DM series, FEP Quest, and others.
Q: I heard SP is trying to save money by buying poor-quality aluminum for the Shocker. Is this true?
A: No. The body of the marker is made from a lower grade aluminum which is easier to machine than the higher grades. There are specific uses for each aluminum grade; "higher grade" is NOT universally better. Additionally, the low-grade aluminum that comprises the Shocker body actually costs more than higher grades. If this were a matter of cutting costs then SP would be using the cheapest metal available, which is the most commonly used grade (the metal that most other markers are made from).
Q: I heard low-grade aluminum fades anodizing finishes easily. Is this true?
A: No. You're no more likely to strip any part of the gun than you are to do the same with some other marker. The only recorded instances are of the vertical adapters breaking off when the gun hits the ground, which happens with all other marker types as well.
The aluminum anodizing process is somewhat altered with lower-grade aluminum and requires extra care to be taken while the parts are undergoing the oxidation. The aluminum will take the anodizing finish perfectly fine, however occasionally there are defective parts that fade over long periods of time. This is a completely random occurrence and there's no way to avoid it, nor is there a method to detect it early on.
A: Yes, check this website's Private Label Shocker guide to see a complete list. There are additional models planned for future release.
Q: What kind of tank do I need for a Shocker?
A: All Smart Parts markers come with a vertical regulator. I suggest using an HP tank with it because the Shocker as well as 99% of all other guns are designed to work with HP tanks. There's no reason to get an LP unless you own an Angel with its mini-reg. Some LP tanks aren't fast enough to perform well on a Shocker.
A: The stock board will allow you to fire 18-bps with eyes off or 24-bps with eyes on. Rebound ramping mode is capped at 20-bps eyes on or off.
A: The actual efficiency rates varies somewhat from gun to gun. Generally, markers yield between 700 to 900 on a 68/4500 (this is only what I have observed). There are, however, multiple aftermarket bolt kits available which will increase your efficiency.
A: 1997-2006 model Shockers accept Shocker-threaded barrels. 2007+ Shockers accept Impulse/Nerve/Ion threaded barrels. The only exceptions would be a small number of Private Label models, where the retailer chose to use Autococker barrels instead.
A: The vertical feed is threaded for all other SP markers (Impulse, Nerve, Ion, Shocker Sport), as well as the Omen, Bushmaster, Mayhem, Invert, and "new-style" Piranhas. There are many aftermarket feednecks available. Feednecks are NOT the same as the Shocker NXT threads.
A: Currently, yes. Originally Vision was an upgrade, but no longer.
A: There isn't such thing as a "perfect" dwell setting (if there were then it wouldn't be adjustbale). Every marker operates a little differently and every marker requires a bit of tuning to perfor well. Instructions for this and other tasks can be found on this website under the Adjusting & Maintaining pages.
A: Diagrams can be found on the Bolt Maintenance pages of this website.
Q: If a Matrix uses an LPR, why doesn't a Shocker?
A: Yes you can, however there are barely any practical advantages to the use of an LPR on a Shocker SFT. The marker was specifically designed to negate the necessity of an LPR; this is why they don't come with LPRs stock.
A: Most aftermarket regulators that will work on other electropneumatics will function on the Shocker, so long as they can regulate to a low enough pressure and be able to keep up with the necessary recharge rates. The following is a short list of several of the regulators which can keep up (there are more, threse are just some examples): Smart Parts Max-Flo, CP reg, AKALMP regs, MacDev Gladiator, Dye Hyper2, Palmers regs (Stab, Fatty), Air America regs (Vigilante, Messiah), Evil Detonator, Bob Long Torpedo, Evolve Pi, Centerflag inline, CCM Inline, and others.
A: This is also a matter of personal preference. I suggest you try both and see how they compare. Remember the vast balance difference between the eVolution and the Halo.
A: Several manufacturers make aftermarket bolt kits to increase air efficiency (and in most cases, decrease FSDO). These include Evolve, New Designz, and Smart Parts themselves. Needless to say any of these bolts will be better then the stock one.
A: Smart parts started adding Humphrey solenoids to Shockers in March 2005. Don't bother upgrading the solenoid...it's not that important. Please refer to the Solenoid section of the website for details.