Microswitch Orientation: (aka. "do I need a flipped switch?)
The trigger microswitch is actuated by a small set screw sticking out the back of the trigger. Microswitch orientation referrs to the direction in which the microswitch lever faces, either UPWARD or DOWNWARD (see the picture below). Originally in 2003-2004, Shocker boards came with a microswitch facing downward, however the firing point screw was located relatively high against the switch. This resulted in a heavy pull due to the actuation point being too close to the lever's fulcrum/hinge. In this situation, flipping the microswitch around to face upward will allow a much cleaner trigger pull. Over time this came to be known as the flipped switch.
In current days, most Shocker/Nerve boards already come with a flipped switch, so the mod is only necessary for older boards. All aftermarket boards come with it.
There's one other consideration. Some early aftermarket triggers were designed to perform the same goal as the flipped switch by moving the firing point set screw downward to better utilize a non-flipped switch between 2003-2004. If using one of these triggers, a non-flipped switch is ideal. The way to tell is to try pulling the trigger without any magnet/spring force installed, which lets you carefully pull the trigger. If you can noticeably feel the trigger clicking through the microswitch, you might need to change something. Either use a different trigger or use a different board (or unflip the switch). Obviously this is not an ideal situatation but you'll need to change one of the parts regardless.
Below is a list of some triggers and the switch position they use best:
Flipped switch: any trigger made by Smart Parts (stock or most private label), newer NDZ triggers that have two firing point screw holes, most other triggers.
Non-flipped switch: older NDZ triggers that have only one firing point screw hole, older CP roller triggers, Hybrid Shocker trigger.
Flipped Switch Instructions:
These instructions are written for the perspective of flipping the switch from the non-flipped to the flipped position. if your board comes with a flipped switch and you wish to flip it back to the opposite position (depending on your trigger), the soldering instructions are the same, just a different start and finish.
If you are handy with a soldering iron, you can flip the microswitch yourself (you must know how to desolder). I no longer offer this service, sorry. You will need the following items: soldering iron, either desoldering iron or desoldering braid, stock of 60/40 solder for electrical applications, small length of wire (about an inch will suffice, or you can use a paperclip, staple, or whatever else that conducts), soldering flux for electrical applications (recommended but not required, only needed if your solder doesn't include a rosin core).
This is what the switch looks like pre-modification:
The first step is to desolder the switch from the circuit board. To do this, you will need either a desoldering iron or a regular soldering iron and a length of desoldering braid. Using your iron, remove the solder from the switch's terminals then push it out the other side of the board. You will then see this:
Flip the switch around so the lever points up, then insert it back into the three soldering terminals. You may have to remove some additional solder from the terminals on the board or the switch, to help it fit in the via pinholes. If you're using liquid soldering flux, you may wish to apply it to the three terminals before reinstalling the switch, however it is also possible to apply flux after it's in as well. Be sure you install the switch through the correct side of the board (use the pictures on this page to see; the switch is on the side of the board with all the swell buttons and other circuit components).
Either way, the next step is to use your soldering iron to apply a new solder connection on the middle terminal. After it's good and strong, you will need to get out a small length of wire or other conductive material. Solder one end to the top terminal, then solder the other end to the bottom one. Specifically, the bottom end of the wire must come in contact with the switch terminal, and the top end must contact the board terminal. Obviously, the metal in this wire cannot come in contact with the middle terminal, or the switch will not operate correctly.
After you have the switch and jumper installed, hook up the board and test it out to verify that it works. If the board turns on but you can't fire it, then check the connections between the microswitch's terminals. Alternately, if the board turns on but the LED doesn't blink, it may be because the microswitch is being jumped and held closed...thus the board won't boot. For that, make sure your wire jumper isn't touching metal-to-metal with the middle terminal.
You may need to adjust your trigger a bit to actually feel the difference in pulls.