Nerve Shooting/Leaking Troubleshooting [ZDSPB Tech]

Nerve leaking/shooting troubleshooting
This includes problems relating to leaking issues, or general shooting problems. Please refer to the other Troubleshooting guides if necessary, for information about electronics repair and other issues.

Listed are the gun's symptom along with a series of possible causes, and how to remedy them. The possible causes are in a specific order, more likely first with the less likely causes lower down the list. When diagnosing problems, you should try each item listed in order.
Let it first be said that a lot of problems can be solved by a good cleaning and greasing. Please refer to the Related Links section for maintenance guides.

Solenoid clicks, but hammer/bolt doesn't fire.
· Replace the battery (common).
· Verify that your dwell isn't set too low.
· Remove the bolt assembly and dry-fire the marker. If the hammer fires correctly then inspect the bolt assembly for damage and make sure the bolt bore is clean and free of debris.
· Verify that pressure is reaching the solenoid by removing the solenoid insert then slowly airing the marker up. If no air leaks out the open hole in the back then there is an LPR malfunction.
· Verify that the solenoid endcap is installed correctly. Parker solenoid endcap has a line that must face the body; Humphrey solenoid has a dot that must face away from the body.

· Replace the solenoid (spool problem).

First shot drop off (FSDO).
· Replace the battery.
· Increase the dwell.
· Clean and regrease the firing assembly and solenoid. Be sure to not undergrease any seals.
· The FSDO in your gun may be caused by the electronics; if this is the case then the only solution is to replace the board.
· Set your aftermarket board's ABS settings, if available. This will compensate the dwell for the first shot and help guard against and stiction problems.
· In some cases FSDO is caused by a venting problem in the solenoid pilot. If this is the case then you would have to replace the part.

Velocity dropoff during rapid fire.
· Replace the battery.
· Clean the vertical regulator (most common) and the LPR.
· Clean and regrease the firing assembly and solenoid.
· Increase the LPR pressure and/or dwell setting.

Marker experiences barrel breaks.
· Clean the SFT o-ring.
· Reduce paint bore size (if possible)
· Replace the SFT o-ring.

Nerve experiences bolt stick with each shot.
· LPR pressure is too high; decrease to compensate.
· Dwell is WAY too high; decrease to compensate. Only decrease if your setting is extremely high.
· Clean and regrease the LPR.
· Clean and regrease the firing assembly, make sure the hammer moves forward and back with ease.

Nerve bolt remains forward when pressurized.
· Verify that the solenoid endcap is installed correctly. Parker solenoid endcap has a line that must face the body; Humphrey solenoid has a dot that must face away from the body.

· Remove the bolt assembly and pressurize the marker. If the hammer remains forward when you fire, then the problem is caused by the firing assembly or LPR (see below).
· If the hammer doesn't stick forward without the bolt, the problem is with the upper body (see below).

Bolt stick caused by firing assembly.
· Clean and re-grease the LPR and valve poppet; make sure the valve spring is reinstalled correctly. LPR pressure needs to be above 100-psi in most Nerves (if you have an LPR tester).
· If you are using the NDZ slikshot ram and the factory upgrade valve poppet (now a stock part), you must remove one of them and replace it with the stock. The redesigned valve poppet isn't designed to work with the NDZ Slikshot ram and will cause bolt stick if you do use them together.

Bolt stick caused by the upper body.
· Remove the detents from the body to see if they are sticking the bolt forward. If they are, then place o-rings around the detent that is screwed too far into the chamber.
· Inspect the bolt carriage assembly for damage or any issue that will prevent the bolt from moving in and out of it nicely.

Vertical Max-Flo breaks piston o-rings.
· Check to see which version piston you have. The older pistons suffered from this o-ring breaking problem, but the new pistons help to prevent it.

SP will replace the old pistons for free, call them up.
· Make sure the piston o-ring is fully greased. If it is lacking lubricant, the o-ring may seize up.
· Air your marker up more slow next time.

Leak down the barrel.
· Clean and regrease the following red o-rings on the piston housing; inspect them for damage; replace if necessary (recommended).

The most common cause for this is the rear piston housing o-ring being damaged. This o-ring is easily cut when slipped over the front of the piston (it is cut on the sharp edges of the eye ribbon groove, or the output hole on the valve). This o-ring is also easily cut when reassembling the body, as the ring gets damaged when sliding through the milling in the back of the body for the bolt components.
· Check for any scratches on the front of the valve housing. If there are any, you'll have to replace the front section.
· Check for any scratches or otherwise deformations on the valve poppet. Again, if there are any, it'll need to be replaced.
· Check for any scratches inside the o-ring grooves for the two front outside o-rings on the piston. If there are any, the piston section will need to be replaced. This is uncommon but possible.

Leak from the eye ribbon hole on the underside of the Nerve body.
· This has the same causes as the above "leak down the barrel" condition.

Leak from the top of the vertical adapter.
· Replace the 14/70 o-ring between the vertical adapter and the underside of the body.

Leak from between the vertical adapter and the top of the vertical regulator.
· Replace the 15/90 tank o-ring around the threads of the vertical reg.
· Replace the bottom 17/70 o-ring around the poppet guide section (must disassemble the reg for this).

Pneumatic lockout conditions:
Pneumatic lockout is the term we use to describe what happens when air leaks into another section of the marker and causes a compression event, which prevents the bolt from closing all the way, or severely slowing it down. A common symptom of this would be low velocities possibly coupled with inconsistencies, or the marker not cycling all together.
· Ram sail o-ring (11/70).
· Hammer piston housing, front inside o-ring (11/70).
· Hammer piston housing, middle outside o-ring (15/70).
· Solenoid butterfly gasket between spool and pilot (Parker solenoid only).
· Solenoid butterfly gasket between spool and endcap (Parker solenoid only).
· Missing close bumper in front of the hammer (can be substituted with a 10/90).

Leak from the bottom of the vertical regulator (adjustment endcap).
Leaks out the adjustment endcap can appear gradually after you fire a shot or be a constant leak of pressure. Same problem for both of these. The following seals can cause this symptom, and should be cleaned.
· Piston o-ring (14/75); clean and regrease.
· Base seal between the poppet and the base (flared section of the poppet and the opposing surface); clean with no grease.
· Base seal 12/90 o-ring; clean with no grease.

Vertical regulator pressure creep.
Creeps can be caused by the following:
· Poppet guide inner seal (9/70); clean and regrease by greasing the top of the poppet; replace if necessary.
· Top 12/90 o-ring on the poppet guide section; clean and regrease; replace if necessary.
· Base seal between the poppet and the base (flared section of the poppet and the opposing surface); clean with no grease.

LPR pressure creep.
LPR pressure creeps can manifest as a leak from the solenoid manifold due to overpressurization of the solenoid, or an excessively hot first shot over the chronograph. The following o-rings can cause them:
· LPR base seal between the poppet and base.
· LPR housing, rear 16/70 o-ring.
· LPR base seal 12/70 o-ring.

Leak from the solenoid manifold (trigger frame leak)
Please refer to the page on Manifold Leaks

When you fire, an air burst vents from the top of the trigger.
· This is normal.

When you fire, an air burst vents from the base of the solenoid.
· This is normal.

Regulator Honk. aka regulator squeek.
Same issues as the leak from adjustment endcap problem directly above.