This is a guide on how to remove a broken powerswitch from your circuit board and install a new one in its place. This is recommended for those ONLY with moderate/advanced soldering experience. You will be soldering directly onto the circuit board, and one false move can cost you the entire board. I am not responsible for any damages done to your marker or yourself during this process.
Please note: This is not a how-to guide to learn how to solder yourself. If you don't know how to solder then you shouldn't start with this; it's better to start with something easier like a pair of wires. Ultimately I can't teach you how to solder, so if you really wish to learn then you'll have to do that on your own.
Broken Powerswitch:
There are several ways that a powerswitch can break. Of them include the little raised button coming off, or the switch cover coming off. If either of those happen, the switch can be replaced through this guide. The below pictures are from a Shocker circuit board, but the switch is the same.
If the whole switch broke off your board, though, you may have some problems. This will only be repairable if both the switch's solder pads are still intact on the surface of the board. If one or both of them were ripped up along with the switch, the board is unrepairable and you will need a new upper board. This picture shows only one remaining solder pad, and as a result can't be repaired.
Powerswitch Repair:
If your switch is indeed repairable, here are the steps you need to follow to remove it and replace with a working one. First, things you will need:
· Replacement powerswitch, ITT/Cannon part number KSS321G. You can order it from an electonics distributor, or from the Store section.
· Soldering iron
· 60/40 electronics solder
· Soldering flux (if not already core'd into your solder)
· Razor blade, knife, or other sharp tool
· Desoldering iron, desoldering bulb, or desoldering braid (I prefer braid)
Read this entire guide BEFORE performing the activity. Ask if you have questions.
The first step in the process is to remove all the unnecessary components from your solenoid/board assembly. Remove the solenoid bracket, remove the solenoid head section, and let the armature fall out from the solenoid. Set all these pieces aside. if possible I also recommend removing the 1/8" microline from the solenoid barb, however you may not wish to risk breaking the barb. However, let it be said that, if you touch the soldering iron to the hose at any time during this repair, it will need to be replaced.
This leaves the solenoid, circuit board, and capacitor still there. The next step is to remove the broken switch. This will be easy if the cover is still present on the switch, however if it broke off you may have some additional steps to follow. I will describe both repair types.
To desolder the switch, I suggest using desoldering braid. I believe this to be easiest to work with. Simply take the braid and lay it down across the side of the switch (this is where it is soldered onto the board). With the braid in position, apply pressure using the soldering iron to the top of the braid to liquefy the solder on the switch, which will then be absorbed by the desoldering braid. You will see a trail of smoke and hopefully be able to see the braid absorb the molten solder. Leave the soldering tip on the switch for no more than five seconds or you risk damage to the board.
Do the same to the other side of the switch. With all the solder removed, it will look somewhat like this:
The switch will still be stuck to the board at this point, so you will still need to pry it up and off. If the cover is still present, you can do this using the soldering iron by touching it to the base of the switch (where it's soldered onto the board) and propping it up using the tip. However, if the cover isn't on the switch then you won't be able to do that (since there's nothing to push against). If that's the case, you will need to take a razor blade or knife and lift the switch while heating up one side base. Again, this most likely will require the assistance of another person to hold the board.
Once one side of the switch is propped up, it will look like this:
At this point all you need do is touch the soldering iron to the base of the switch still attached to the board, and it should come right off. You're now left with the two empty solder pads on the board, ready to accept a new switch.
Seen above is a new powerswitch held up for a comparison view. You will need to position the switch correctly on the board, making absolutely sure that it's perfectly straight, and perfectly even with the edge of the board. If the switch is too far out, the button may be broke off [again] when you reinstall the board into the frame. If the switch is positioned too far back, you'll have to press the ION jewel extremely hard to get the marker to turn on. Take your time and go slow, making sure everything is exactly where it needs to be. Again, assistance from another will most likely help. If you mess up then desolder once again and try it a second time. Don't screw up very many times, though, or you'll ruin the board with all the desoldering.
Once finished, the above picture shows what you should have.
Plug the board in to test it out. If the board powers up like normal, then the repair was successful and you can reassemble the marker and be done. If the board doesn't power up then the connection between the switch and solder pad may be loose, or there is a separate problem. Please refer to the Troubleshooting guide for details.
Please note that, in the following pictures I use to describe the repair, the powerswitch is actually undamaged. I simply removed it to take pictures of the repair process, then reinstalled it back onto the board. I don't suggest doing this unless you have advanced soldering skills (you may damage your board in the attempt, so there's no need to risk it). Also please note that the board in the pictures is a Tadao Ion board, so it may appear a little different than the stock or other boards.
Please note that, if possible you should have assistance during this process. The board will balance itself on the edge of the solenoid, but it may not be steady enough to desolder unless somebody holds it down for you.
Another angle...
