Ion Leaking/Shooting Troubleshooting [ZDSPB Tech]

Ion leaking/shooting troubleshooting
This includes problems relating to leaking issues, or general shooting problems. Please refer to the other Troubleshooting guides if necessary, for information about electronics repair and other issues.

Listed are the gun's symptom along with a series of possible causes, and how to remedy them. The possible causes are in a specific order, more likely first with the less likely causes lower down the list. When diagnosing problems, you should try each item listed in order.
Let it first be said that a lot of problems can be solved by a good cleaning and greasing. Please refer to the Related Links section for maintenance guides.

Bolt moves but Ion doesn't fire paint.
· Replace the battery.
· Increase dwell and or input pressure. Don't exceed 200-psi.
· Verify that the boltstop is installed correctly. The indentation around the outside of the boltstop faces the rear of the marker.
· Clean and re-grease the bolt assembly. The assembled bolt should move forward and back with relative ease. If there is a large amount of resistance, there may be a damaged component, misaligned o-ring, or some other problem.
· Clean the solenoid armature. When you drop the armature into its housing, it should fall in and out when you tip it back and forth. If it doesn't, the solenoid mat be scratched or otherwise damaged, and need replacement.
· Venting hose or hose fitting may be damaged and preventing the bolt from venting as it should (which is necessary for the marker to fire). Replace the middle banjo fitting.
· If a QEV is installed, the QEV internal seal may be damaged and preventing the bolt from venting. Check this by installing the stock middle banjo then increase the dwell back up to 40-50, and test the marker. If it fires properly then the QEV was to blame; if it doesn't function then something else is the cause.

Bolt moves forward when Ion is pressurized.
· Check the following o-rings for damage, clean and regrease, replace if necessary (recommended):
bolt sail o-ring (16x2-mm ID)
bolt stop o-rings (14/70 and 20/70)
body breech seal (17/70).

· Verify that the tip of the bolt and the middle section of the bolt are both unscratched. If there is a large enough scratch, a leak may result.
· Verify that pressure is indeed moving through the solenoid while the marker is idle. For this, you will have to first separate the frame from the body and remove the banjo fitting from the vertical adapter. Then, pull out the circuit board so it is free from the frame, and screw the banjo fitting back into the top of the vertical adapter. This will allow you to test the marker.
Remove the middle banjo fitting from the underside of the body breech (the one with the 1/8" microline). Now, take an object and stick it inside the feedneck to prevent the bolt from closing (this won't cause any damage). When you now pressurize the marker, pressure should continuously leak out the 1/8" microline. If air doesn't leak, then the solenoid is the problem, and should be disassembled and cleaned, and reassembled correctly. You may be able to hold your finger over the middle banjo for a short period of time, to keep air from rushing out.
If air is indeed released from the microline in the above step, your solenoid or board may be damaged, causing the solenoid to fire continuously. If this is the case you'll need to replace the board/solenoid.

Ion regulator seized.
Regulator seizures are generally caused by undergreasing the reg. This involves the reg spiking and overpressurizing the marker as a result. Disassemble it then apply Dow/Corning Shocker lube or anti-seize compound to the threads of the adjustment endcap. Use the regulator maintenance guide on this website if necessary.
If the gauge and/or internals were damaged when the regulator seized, you may wish to send the marker back to SP for warranty repair.

Velocity dropoff during rapid fire.
· Replace the battery.
· Increase the dwell. Try using the stock setting (52 blinks with stock board, 34 milliseconds with aftermarket board), or if you have a QEV you can try it at 16 or more blinks (16 or more milliseconds with aftermarket board).
· Clean and regrease the regulator. This is most often the cause.
· Clean and regrease the firing assembly and solenoid. Be sure not to overgrease or undergrease the o-rings, as either can cause the problem.

First shot drop off (FSDO).
· Replace the battery.
· Increase the dwell setting.
· Clean and regrease the firing assembly and solenoid. Be sure to not undergrease or overgrease any seals.
· The FSDO in your gun may be caused by the electronics; if this is the case then the only solution is to replace the board (not a guaranteed solution, though).
· Set your aftermarket board's ABS settings, if available. This will compensate the dwell for the first shot and help guard against and stiction problems.

Leak down the barrel.
· Check these o-rings for damage; replace if necessary.
bolt sail o-ring (16x2-mm ID)
bolt stop o-rings (14/70 and 20/70)
body breech seal (17/70).

· Check the bolt tip and bolt middle section for any scratching or excessive wear.

Leak down the barrel (Firebolt only).
· If you install the Firebolt and it immeditely leaks down the barrel, check the items above first.
· If everything seems to be in order then the bolt's internal o-ring may have been damaged during assembly. This o-ring can be found in the o-ring diagram here. The two pieces of the bolt are loctited together so a lot of torque will be required to separate without scratching the bolt surface. When reinstalling the pieces, apply loctite to the FEMALE THREADS ONLY then screw the tip onto the tail section.

Fire chamber doesn't screw all the way onto the breech section.
· Boltstop is installed backwards. The depression around the outside needs to face toward the rear of the fire chamber, not the front.

Leak from the rear of the fire chamber.
· Check the rear o-ring on the bolt for damage; replace if necessary (10/70).

Leak from the swivel donut. (either side of it)
· Remove the c-clip on the rear of the fire chamber then slip the donut off the fire chamber. Replace the two o-rings located there (15/70).

Stripped swivel donut screw hole.
· The swivel donut will need to be replaced.

Stripped body breech screw hole.
· The body breech will need to be replaced.

Stripped vertical adapter threads, or vertical adapter banjo threads.
· The frame will need to be replaced.

Vertical regulator doesn't screw all the way unto the vertical adapter.
· The reg filter is smashed and will need to be reinstalled. Common problem, easy to fix.

Leak from the bottom of the regulator.
· Remove the regulator adjustment endcap and replace the o-ring around the bottom (18/90).
· Remove the regulator piston and replace both o-rings (16/70 at the top, 10/70 at the bottom), regrease then reassemble the reg.
· Remove the macroline fitting and reinstall using thread locker; let cure for at least 12 hours.

Leak from internal microline hose, near the top of the solenoid.
· With the battery disconnected, use a soap/water solution to locate the exact source of the leak. The following features can cause a leak originating from this location:
· Solenoid head o-ring (9/70).
· O-ring seals on the 4-mm microline barbs that attach to the solenoid head (4x1-mm ID).
· Verify that the 4-mm barbs aren't crossthreaded into the solenoid head section.
· Replace whichever of the 4-mm microline hoses that is closest to the leak origin.
· Replace the 1/8" microline hose, as it may be causing the leak as well.

Leak from internal microline hose, near a banjo fitting.
· Replace the hose leading into the banjo fitting.
· Replace the banjo itself. The o-ring inside it may be damaged, or the body seal o-ring may be worn out (replacement fitting seals (3.5-mm ID, 6-mm OD) should have come with your Ion).

Continuous leak from the hole at the bottom of the solenoid.
· Clean the solenoid armature as well as the solenoid housing (where the armature goes).
· The solenoid armature seal may be damaged; replace the armature and try again.
· Solenoid housing (where the armature goes) is most likely scratched; the solenoid will need to be replaced.

Ion leaks from the trigger frame ONLY when the frame is tightened to the body.
· The problem is with the alignment of the rear banjo or the solenoid head. Swap the rear and front banjo fittings.
· Replace the rear 4-mm microline hose with one of correct length.
· Replace the solenoid head section (uncommon).

Air is released from the top of the trigger when you fire.
This is normal.

Air is released from the bottom of the solenoid when you fire.
This is normal.

Air is released from the bottom of the solenoid when you fire, with QEV installed.
This is normal!

Solenoid microline barb broke off while removing 1/8" microline.
· The solenoid will have to be replaced. Send the marker into SP for repair.

Marker experiences barrel breaks.
· Clean the SFT o-ring.
· Reduce paint bore size (if possible)
· Replace the SFT o-ring.

Regulator output pressure creep.
· The regulator's base seal is dirty or moist. Clean the base seal as well as the base inside the reg endcap, reassembly with no grease.
· The base seal disk is damaged. Remove it, flip upside down, and reinstall into the piston so you're now using the other side. You can do this once, but if it becomes damaged again you'll need to replace it.