Subject: Shocker Sport max-flo
From: Andrew H.
Hello!
I was looking to make an o-ring kit for my max-flow. I was wondering for the durometer, do you know which shore it is? I was looking on mcmaster-carr, and they have 3 different shores with each a different level of durometer. Also, would I be looking at a polyeurethane or a buna-n o-ring?
Thanks,
Andrew
Re: Shocker Sport max-flo
Subject: Shocker Sport regulator
Re: Shocker Sport regulator
Honestly I would definitely suggest checking out the option of hydrotesting the tank, because your options for using something else are somewhat limited these days. The best drop-in reg you can use is similar to the one you already have, a screw-in style Max-Flo from a Shocker or Impulse. Newer markers these days can use a vertical reg but Shockers were from the age before these became popular so they don't have that option. You can get assorted other components and create a "makeshift" vertical reg assembly, but the results are usually ugly since the parts you'll use won't match (if it matters).
Subject: Shocker Sport vertical adapter
Re: Shocker Sport vertical adapter
Subject: Feedneck retrofit
Re: Feedneck retrofit
In the past when I've run into this I've either grinded down the top of the body around the feedneck, or I've modified the feedneck itself to fit around the body milling. Something like this zdspb.com/media/skr/feedneck_clearancemod.JPG, or this one where I slimmed down the feedneck a bit zdspb.com/media/skr/feedneck_clearancemod2.JPG
Either one requires a little bit of metal work, but it's doable even with a hacksaw or file if needed.
Anyways as you mentioned the feedneck will need some kind of epoxy to hold it in place, but generally speaking any good metal-to-metal epoxy should do the trick. Just be sure to clean the stuff so it doesn't slop down inside the breech.
Subject: Reg rebuild
Re: Reg rebuild
Subject: Air assist parts
Re: Air assist parts
Subject: Shocker Sport Morlock
Re: Shocker Sport Morlock
They're much easier to adjust and operate, which is an advantage, but not so much a performance issue. The biggest thing with the Morlock installs is often the tinkering activity of actually installing them, which is most of the reason behind it these days (lol)
Subject: Glide ring
Re: Glide ring
Subject: Body plugs
Re: Body plugs
Subject: New board
Re: New board
There's a couple custom-installed boards out there that you can use but I don't offer that service myself at the moment. It requires some mill work for eyes that I can't do right now. That kindof leaves you with the only drop-in board that was ever out there, which is the Glacier...but those are pretty much gone now too.
Subject: 2000 Shocker feedneck
Re: 2000 Shocker feedneck
Subject: PVI Shocker
Re: PVI Shocker
Yep, a shore "A" will work as far as I know. I'm not sure it makes much difference but that's what I've used in the past, if I recall.
As for the material, the buna rings will be much more inexpensive (obviously) but the urethane ones will theoretically last longer. It's not a light-and-day difference though so typically buna rings work just fine...especially given the price difference, it allows you to buy them in much larger numbers and all.
-from Andrew "Ydna" DuBuc - [ZDSPB.com]
From: Andrew S.
YDNA,
I just recently got my hands on a shocker turbo and I had a few questions for you about maybe doing some work on it. I am almost positive that the regulator is shot on it, (plus it is reverse threaded for some stupid reason) I would like for a regular threaded tank to be able to power the gun because the reverse threaded tank I have now needs to be rehydro'd. I know this might involve getting a new regulator and an ASA but I would have no idea on how determine which ones would work best and what not. The other option I have is to do a frame swap, I was reading your website and it might be interesting to put this board into an old Autococker I have laying around here wasting space. Would that be an option? (probably cheaper then re-modding the shocker)
Let me know if this sounds stupid or if you could do it.
Thanks,
Andrew S.
Iowa State University
Well, the reg you have right now is one of the old "Max-Flo 3000" systems from like 2001 or thereabouts. It's threaded differently since the tank was meant to hold HPA or CO2, but to fill it with CO2 you needed a special adapter that would connect to the fill station....long story short big hassle and pretty pointless too (lol).
There are other options, such as using a regular screw-in ASA attached to the regulator portion of the system you have right now, or using a regular ASA with another modular type reg... I have some details for that on this page zdspb.com/tech/mguide/shockersport/parts_regulator.html
-from Andrew "Ydna" DuBuc - [ZDSPB.com]
From: Scott S.
To whom it may concern,
I have a shocker S/F, I was wondering if you have a verticle adapter for the max-flo I could buy from you guys? If not do you know where I could find one?
Thanks for your time,
Scott
Nope unfortunately those parts were never actually mass-produced unless a custom shop did a small batch of them. The older Shockers were around in the days before the vertical adapter became a standard part, so it used its own special vertical regulator "mount" which would transfer the stock bottomline reg to the vertical position, but everything would still connect using macroline and such.
I've heard of people making their own from other marker parts, and really it wouldn't be too hard as long as you found a physically compatible ASA, but it would of course take a bit of tinkering and matching parts to get everything nice and orderly...
-from Andrew "Ydna" DuBuc - [ZDSPB.com]
From: Nick S.
Hi,
I just purchased a beautiful 2000 shocker sport that has been sitting on the wall of a local paintball shop probably since it came from the factory. It has the press fit feed neck and I would like to upgrade it to a feedneck that will fit a halo. Could you recomend a feed neck that would fit my shocker? Also with the new feed neck is there a method you recomend to use to keep it in place? Would an epoxy work?
Thanks,
Nick Seward
There are a number of present-day necks that would fit, but the only thing you have to worry about is the body style being too large around the feedneck. These 2000 bodies have some cosmetic milling "support" for the feedneck in front and behind it, which can get in the way of some low-rise feednecks. As a result of this, the feedneck you choose should be a mid-rise if you can find one, ideally...but mid-rises are kindof hard to find nowadays so it might not be an option.
-from Andrew "Ydna" DuBuc - [ZDSPB.com]
From: Taylor K.
I have a 98 shocker with the screw in manifold max flo. It is the older version with the huge adjustment cap. I blew some of the o-rings in it and i am not sure which kit or individual o rings I should buy. Also, what would be a good way to put an on/off before or on my reg? thanks,
Taylor
The o-rings inside the reg are mostly the same as the slightly newer version regs which came on the Shocker Sports (with the shorter endcap). There is one main difference, the newer ones use a 14/75 o-ring for the piston whereas the older version you have uses a 16/70 o-ring instead. It's slightly larger since the pistons are slightly larger on the old regs. But as long as you have a 16/70 from some other part of the marker it should work okay.
-from Andrew "Ydna" DuBuc - [ZDSPB.com]
From: Ron H.
I am looking for a elbow with the air assist in it can you help me? I have a Shocker sport turbo
Thank you
Ron H.
I have the 1/8" diameter hose elbows available (the part that screws into the marker body) but I don't have the actual hopper elbows. Usually these days when somebody needs one of those they just drill the hole and glue the hose in place by hand, since they're pretty much no longer available anymore.
-from Andrew "Ydna" DuBuc - [ZDSPB.com]
From: Sascha R.
Hi
I’ve seen that you converted some Shocker Sport with the Morlock Board.
What benefits does this have? Could you reach a higher rate of fire, where is the Limit? Or is the Shocker Sport mechanical capped?
Sorry for my bad English
Sascha
The max firing speed of the gun doesn't move too much either way, since it's more or less limited by the closed bolt action of the gun. That bolt piston takes a looooong time to move back and forth, which limits things down to 13-14 bps (or slower if you're using a slower hopper).
With that said, the maximum ROF doesn't change too much, so the benefits to the board install get pushed towards the better firing logic and greater adjustments. One of the things that is instantly changed is the semiauto "shot buffer" that the stock Shocker Sport boards use...basically if you shoot faster than the BPS cap then the board just disregards your last shot and you end up shooting half the speed. So if you fire the gun at 14-bps it'll probably only be firing 5-6 bps depending on the conditions. (more modern boards have buffers in place that allow the gun to fire at the max speed if you exceed it).
-from Andrew "Ydna" DuBuc - [ZDSPB.com]
From: John
How would I go about removing my "Fire Piston Seal Ring" from my shocker. I have a shocker sport 4x4. There's no tech (that I could find) on how to remove it on your site.
Thanks in advance....
The ring itself can be expanded since it has that little crack seam running through it at one point. What I've suggested in the past is to work in a small tool (like a tiny screwdriver or similar) which can be used to pry the two parts apart. But naturally you don't want to pry too hard, since the ring can snap if expanded too far.
-from Andrew "Ydna" DuBuc - [ZDSPB.com]
From: Eric H.
Hi, would you happen to have any body plugs for sale for a shoebox shocker? I'm looking for gloss black please.
Regards
Eric
You may be able to find them at a local hardware store if you look for a 1/8" NPT or NPS plug. The screws are steel so they'd be available in silver finish, but it's possible you'd find one in black oxide. Unfortunately I don't have any available at the moment so I can't help much.
-from Andrew "Ydna" DuBuc - [ZDSPB.com]
From: Smiley B.
Hi,
I have a Shocker Sport frankenstein. What board would be best for scenario play?
Smiley
Well, these days it's getting hard to find a source for boards so your choices are kindof limited. I do have a few of the stock LS and DS ones available, but once I run out of those then I probably won't be getting more in.
Personally I use a DS Turbo board in mine for big games. I use regular semiauto most of the time then switch it to Turbo mode if things get too dicey (and they always do....LOL). LS boards are a bit easier to adjust but it's harder to find an LS board with Turbo mode. The other good thing about DS boards is that any of them can potentially be made into an S/F board by adding the firing mode switch (giving it fullyauto and three-shot modes).
-from Andrew "Ydna" DuBuc - [ZDSPB.com]
From: Andrew C.
Hey I have a 2000 Shocker that was a pressed fitted feedneck, and it broke off. Any tips on how to reattach it without spending alot of money?
The press-fit feednecks are meant to be stuffed down in position then you can use a metal-to-metal epoxy to hold them tight in place. If the feedneck itself physically broke or cracked then you'd have to replace it, in which case you could use really any current-day threaded feedneck (as long as it was high enough to clear the body milling) then just epoxy it in place just the same. Check with your local hardware store and see what kinds of epoxies they have, that's probably the best place to get the stuff.
-from Andrew "Ydna" DuBuc - [ZDSPB.com]
From: WH
Would you by chance know what would cause a CO2 leak out of the back of the bolt on an old PVI Shocker? The gas is venting continuously through the gold filter in the back of the bolt, but the marker still fires.
The rear end of the bolt cylinder is continuously filled air air pressure, so there's an o-ring responsible for sealing the end of the bolt's piston which is pressurized whenever the marker is used. That's probably the one responsible for your leaking cylinder.....you'll have to take the bolt cylinder housing apart in order to access it. It breaks apart into two pieces but as far as I can tell the two ends are loctited together so it takes a lot of force to separate them.
I don't know the o-ring size off the top of my head but it's probably a size 10 or 11 (which would be a 10/70 or 11/70 o-ring) most likely the same sizes as the old shocker sport markers also used.
-from Andrew "Ydna" DuBuc - [ZDSPB.com]
