Subject: Hybrid triggers
From: David K.
Sup Andrew,
I recently picked up a new hybrid frame to put on my shocker, but the only problem is I can't get my trigger to fit or line up correctly. Do you know if only certain triggers will fit and if so which ones? I tried looking for the original trigger that had came with the frame when they were released but I was unable to do so.
Re: Hybrid triggers
Re: Re: Hybrid triggers
Subject: Limited gold shocker
Re: Limited gold shocker
Subject: Parker solenoid damage
Re: Parker solenoid damage
Usually when people run into situations like this they end up buying a used solenoid off the internet somewhere, with perhaps a leaking solenoid spool, or some other leak problem. Then they can use it for the working parts (coil) and toss the damaged seals. Not sure if you want to do that or not though.
Subject: New eye problem?
Re: New eye problem?
So I'm thinking to myself, that could be the cause of your reflective eye problem the whole time, and in fact it likely was the cause if the stock board worked okay. But now that you're running a Virtue I'm a bit more confused...I mean there's a number of things that can cause eye trouble but 99% of them will be the same regardless of the lower board. To be absolutely sure I think the best thing you can do right now is to test it out with a stock board or something similar, see if they still don't work. If that's the case then it might be the eye damaged as you mentioned, cold be the wire harness, or the small pins inside the wire harness connectors...it'll take some work but that'll show us what's really going on at this stage anyway.
If the eyes do work with the stock board then it might be because of the eye angle, but you mentioned that was changed right now. I'm not sure on it, check on the other stuff and we'll see what's going on from that point.
Subject: Shocker power trouble
Re: Shocker power trouble
My guess is your problem being one of those two issues. Both are repairable, although you'll probably end up having to send something in for the repair. Let me know what you find out and I can give you some options....or if you just want to send the parts in to be diagnosed/repaired that's okay too.
Subject: SFT / NXT boards?
Re: SFT / NXT boards?
Subject: Blackheart NXT
Re: Blackheart NXT
Re: Re: Blackheart NXT
Re: Re: Re: Blackheart NXT
Subject: Freeflow Shocker census
Re: Freeflow Shocker census
Subject: Shocker woes
Re: Shocker woes
In terms of dwell and pressure, it varies from marker to marker but the general setpoints for basic tuning is 35-45 chirps for dwell on the stock board, and adjust the input pressure to achieve your velocity. Usually this ends up being around 180-200 psi which is acceptable. Once you have it dialed in you can often make smaller refinements to the settings to get slightly better performance, although this also tends to vary between guns since all of them are different in their own little ways.
Subject: NDZ fire chamber
Re: NDZ fire chamber
Subject: Shocker dwell problem
Re: Shocker dwell problem
Did you ever try plugging the battery in when the powerswitch was not installed on the upper board? I'd suggest removing the switch (very carefully of course since the more you solder something the easier it wears out) then plugging everything in like normal, see if it still boots up and off like earlier. If it does then you know the problem to be somewhere else. If it doesn't turn on then the switch might be defective, or something. If that's the case then I can send you another to install if you'd like to do it.
The other thing that comes to mind is that the switch could have become flooded with flux if you're using a liquid when soldering, although it's typically pretty hard to use that much flux and not notice it. But still a possibility. If you think that's the case then the switch is probably beyond repair...I can send another if so.
If necessary you can send the parts in but honestly I'd probably end up following more or less the exact method I described above (lol) to narrow the problem down. I can do it if you want but I'd like to avoid sending of any parts unless absolutely necessary since the cost for shipping is no fun at all.
Subject: SFT power
Re: SFT power
Subject: Octane bolt
Re: Octane bolt
Subject: Tadao 6.1 deal?
My questions to you are:
Re: Tadao 6.1 deal?
The 6.1 board does have better eye performance than the stock boards, but it'll be the same as basically all those other boards. It won't be the "best" though which is probably the tadao M7 eye performance. But of course since that's the newest tadao board it's definitely more expensive, it's more expensive than some of the other boards that aren't even on closeout. So it's really up to you whether you want the max eye performance but end up paying quite a bit more.
Subject: Nerve board reflash
Re: Nerve board reflash
Subject: 7e Shocker board
Re: 7e Shocker board
Subject: Shock reg problem?
Re: Shock reg problem?
Besides for that the only other thing I'd mention was to check the dwell and pressure (if there isn't a gauge, that is). You can always try increasing the dwell setting, it's better to be too high than too low, so if that takes care of it then it'd probably be okay. The pressure could cause it too, but only if you don't have a gauge on the gun and aren't monitoring it (such as if the reg is now outputting less pressure, it could be upped a bit).
Re: Re: Shock reg problem?
Re: Re: Re: Shock reg problem?
That said....I know slick honey (and similar) is VERY popular in the Dye community. There have been times when people have essentially said "problem with your gun? maybe it's because you're not using slick honey" of course that's a bit overzealous, since changing a grease won't solve virtually any problems by itself (rather the act of regreasing might), but boy do those guys like their honey...lol
Subject: Shocker build
Re: Shocker build
In the frame you'll need these...
That should pretty much cover everything, besides for generic things like feedneck, grips, bottomline screws, etc etc.
Subject: Evil det reg
Re: Evil det reg
I'd suggest checking with the local hardware store and seeing if they have any low-profile screws that would work. Usually they're pretty inexpensive, better than ordering off the internet anyway.
Subject: Evolve trouble
Re: Evolve trouble
Subject: Fire can swap
Re: Fire can swap
Subject: Stripped bolt guide
Re: Stripped bolt guide
Subject: APE problem
Re: APE problem
It could be the board, or it could be the microswitch on the board, which can be defective too. I think if I were you I would try airing the marker up with the lower board removed then manually click the trigger microswitch with your finger while the board is outside of the frame. See if you can get it to bounce like that...if you can then the board or settings/programming would be to blame. If not then it's probably the trigger setup somehow.
Subject: Maintenance video?
Re: Maintenance video?
Subject: Poor efficiency on NXT
Re: Poor efficiency on NXT
You can always try the generic things which include lowering dwell and raising your input pressure (without exceeding 200-psi) but that doesn't work for all markers since they're all different. It might be worth a try, though, just to see what happens at other settings.
Subject: Insert chamber threads
Re: Insert chamber threads
Subject: Hybrid frame
Re: Hybrid frame
Subject: Erratic consistency
Re: Erratic consistency
Subject: New powerswitch?
Re: New powerswitch?
The only problem with this process is unfortunately behind you at this point....removing the board can be tricky since the two solenoid terminals sticking up are somewhat fragile. They connect on the other ends to the coil of wire down inside the solenoid so if they get pulled apart then there's really no way to repair them...if that's the case then the whole solenoid would have to be replaced.
Subject: LED mod at home
Re: LED mod at home
If you're looking to buy a surface-mount LED for your own LED mod at home, please contact me first to see what they cost at this moment. I rotate suppliers periodically so they may be cheaper or more expensive.
Subject: NXT trigger rest
Re: NXT trigger rest
Re: Re: NXT trigger rest
Re: Re: Re: NXT trigger rest
I'd pretty much agree with your tech about the marker being hard to diagnose in regards to o-ring problems, but in my experience it isn't much different from marker to marker. Spool valve markers tend to have more o-rings inside so they can be that much more daunting to repair, but the same type of diagnosis problems can apply to anything. With a Shocker, if you hear a leak then there's usually more than one seal that can potentially cause it...if all those seals look good visually then yeah your best bet is to replace all the potential causes. The trick is knowing which ones to check and/or replace (and hopefully the info on my site would help with that). It's a similar thing with a DM or even a non-spooler, just so long as you know exactly which rings to check.
Honestly the first thing is to get in the mindset that just because an o-ring looks good visually....it doesn't mean it's actually good and not the problem. People are always telling me they've "checked" the o-ring so it's not the problem...but really the only way to check an o-ring is to replace it with a new one. If everything is acting the same then the o-ring you removed is probably okay...but hey you just pulled out a two-cent disposable seal so there's not often much point in recycling it back into the gun (lol). Sometimes there's a tiny tear in there that you just can't see...those are the tricky ones.
Subject: NoX bolt and boards
Re: NoX bolt and boards
The necessity for an aftermarket NXT bolt diminished when the gun started coming with the SP HE as a stock part. Honestly that's the only reason the Shocker SFT never came stock with it...because it'd all but destroy the aftermarket support for it. I suppose that's why guns like the DM and Rail don't have any aftermarket bolts for them (except for gimmick parts that don't change anything).
The Tadao M7...I have no idea about that one. SP really dropped the ball on it. I don't really know what to suggest about that situation, I mean there's no reason to get the current Tadao board if the new one will be released, but at this rate who knows when that will be. I fear they may be waiting for the release of the new marker but that's also not something they have a tentative date for....since they don't want to have any dates or hype to fail.
Note: At the time of this e-mail, the Tadao Shocker M7 boards had yet to be released. They were marketed by SP and delayed for over a year, though finally released after this message.
Subject: Tank for Shocker?
Re: Tank for Shocker?
Subject: Evolve bolt question
Re: Evolve bolt question
Subject: Mis-informed about Dynasty Shocker?
Re: Mis-informed about Dynasty Shocker?
Yes, actually the trigger is a special one they make just for the Hybrid Shocker frame...which would not be so good in your situation. I'm not entirely sure if the triggers don't fit anything else (maybe come compatibility with another marker, some series Intimidator?) but whenever I hear people talking about trigger upgrades they seem to have the same impression that the trigger can't be replaced with anything else.
So if that's the case, you'd have to get one from Hybrid...although I'm not sure what their situation is right now since they say they're not making many new parts, but still seem to be in business.
-from Andrew "Ydna" DuBuc - [ZDSPB.com]
From: David K.
Thanks Andrew, I just emailed hybrid from the link that they still have up on their store, I hope I can get a response on if they still have some in stock somewhere or provide me with a trigger that'll work from maybe another marker. Someone on nation thought he had heard that a 2k5 timmy trigger would work.
From: Matt B.
Do you have any idea how many gold shocker SFT's were made?
Not sure on the exact number, but if I were to guess I'd say 500 or so. Gold was the third color made, after the limited edition blue, then black....then the infamous gold. In 2006 they started selling yellow ones but the color is noticeably different.
-from Andrew "Ydna" DuBuc - [ZDSPB.com]
From: Michael M.
Hello,
I have two shocker parker solenoids and I am unsure if they are functional or not. I was told they were when I bought them but neither of them have an upper board or the pins that connect the upper to the solenoid. I was wondering if you did repairs on solenoids and how much it would cost for two. I would only need an upper board for one of them. The other one I would just need repaired and the two connection pins put in so that I can solder some wires to it. Thank you
Mike
hmmm, well from the sound of your description I'm afraid to say it doesn't look too good. If the two solder terminals sticking out from the solenoid are no longer there, it pretty much means the solenoid coil is trashed and can't be repaired. The rest of the solenoids are likely functional, as are the upper boards that went on top of them, but the magnet portions will be problematic.
If necessary I do have replacement solenoids available but they're very expensive things, cost $80 each, and you'd have to send the marker in for the swap. We can arrange that if needed but it'll definitely set you back a bit.
-from Andrew "Ydna" DuBuc - [ZDSPB.com]
From: Rick F.
Hey Ydna,
Maybe you can shed some help on this. I've probably had asked you the same thing long ago but just got some new info regarding my eyes recently. My story is that ever since I had gotten my pred10.0 board for my sft, the eyes never seemed to have worked. With the stock board the had worked fine, but since I had sold it before getting the predator I couldn't test it to see what was up. So ever since then, I played blind and the marker worked fine. I couldn't let things go and my curiousity got the best of me why the eyes didn't work (board was set up fine). Either something was up with the board (even after reflash) or something else was wrong. I knew someone who had a shocker with a stock board that could test the eye out, so I mailed them the eye to see the result. They tested the eye and said it worked fine, that he noticed nothing wrong and it worked just as good as his eye did. I sold the pred board awhile ago and bought a virtue. The current owner hasn't stated any problems with the predator board or even mentioned any eye problems (that is, if the predator was at fault which seems it never was :/). Anyway, I pop in my newly acquired virtue, set it all up..........and again, eye seems dead. So what gives?! Eye tested fine from another user, was fine with my original stock board when I had it, and now it just doesn't want to work? Possibly him shipping the eye back to me could have finally put the last nail on the coffin since it seemed to have gotten crushed. (the eye sensor doesnt have that gap no more like in that picture on your site with the before/after aligning the eye and re-soldering it, it basically looks like the after pic now). Anyway, could it be anything else? I need to get my hands on someone else's shocker to test all my components out again, but I'm more confused then ever before. What could be the issue? sorry for the long email.
thanks
rick
hmm, well first let me say the immediate thing that popped into my head when you mentioned "predator 10" is that they're very problematic. I have two of them here in the shop right now (couple different guns from a team) and neither of them work. Well, one of them works but the reflective eyes refuse to activate...the beam-break eyes work okay but when you try to switch it to reflective, it stays in beam-break mode (ehhh?). The other one flat out doesn't work at all.
I used to endorce these boards and even sold them when they were first conceived in 2005. They were THE board to get back in those days. But it seems that currently they break overwhelmingly more than anything else, and have all sorts of internal problems. The guy that used to program them is gone now so I can't even get a hold of him for help.
So in the end, selling it was probably a good choice...for you anyway.
-from Andrew "Ydna" DuBuc - [ZDSPB.com]
From: w/h
Well I have been linked to your site numerous times for help on my shocker and I still can't seem to fix it. I have a 06 Dynasty shocker, Has virtue board and other ups but I don't think they matter. I replaced both harnesses in it, and it STILL doesn't turn on. What could be the problem?
Okay, well there are a few other things that can cause the problem, although they're not as common as the wire harness (it's the cause probably 75% of the time). The next most common thing is the little switch on the circuit board being damaged, or fallen apart...that's not too uncommon either. It happens when putting the frame back on the body and knocking the switch with the clear button located in the frame. I've got some pictures of what "broken" switches look like, found on this page:
zdspb.com/tech/mguide/shockersft/trouble_electronics.html
The other common cause is damage to the upper board, caused by the upper grip panel screws. Unfortunately to see if you have this problem you have to take the frame off. But you can find pictures of that also on the page in the link above.
-from Andrew "Ydna" DuBuc - [ZDSPB.com]
From: Ian R.
Basically, I'm an idiot, and I can't find the answer to this anywhere, and it seems no one from the Shocker forums on nation is ever online.... I was wondering if NXTs and SFTs have the same boards? Like, would I be able to buy a board that was in a SFT shocker and use it in my NXT?
Thanks, and sorry to bother
Ian
The boards are the same, the only difference is the programming for the eyes. The issue is, older boards that were programmed for the SFT's reflective eye won't work in an NXT Shocker since it has beam-break eyes. But, boards programmed for NXT Shockers are all programmed to work with both (to make them reverse-compatible).
-from Andrew "Ydna" DuBuc - [ZDSPB.com]
From: Matt
My Blackheart board came with an eye ribbon. What is the purpose of this ribbon? I have a brand new NXT. Do I have any use for this ribbon, or is it for older SFT's with the reflective eye. Appreciate your help!
Matt
It's just a spare that's included in case you were using one of the older Shockers that didn't come with eyes installed. If that's the case then you can toss it in the marker, or use it for spare in case your current one has trouble. Otherwise just ignore it :)
-from Andrew "Ydna" DuBuc - [ZDSPB.com]
From: Matt
Awesome. Thanks for the quick response! I've got another question for you...Can I ship you my gun next week and have you install my Blackheart board. I'm not very good with electronics and am afraid I would break something, and then have to send it away anyway to get fixed. Let me know how much you want for this. Thanks again man!
Matt
Well actually I do have a demo video posted where I go through the eye install process. I'd suggest checking it out since it can likely save you some time...
Check this page zdspb.com/tech/misc/techvideos.html
I don't have a specific "eye install" video for Shocker SFTs, although I do have one for NXTs. It's pretty much the same thing except SFTs use a small screw to hold the eye, whereas NXTs use the eye cover to hold it.
But the main activity is the frame removal...that's where most people damage parts. There's a video for that, showing the careful stuff.
If needed you can send it in for the work but it'd really be kindof expensive for a pretty quick task like this. But if you need any help let me know...
-from Andrew "Ydna" DuBuc - [ZDSPB.com]
From: Erik F.
Quick Stupid Question, do you know how many Free Flow shockers were made?
*Erik F.*
Not sure on the exact number but if I had to guess I'd say between 350-500. All those PL markers are just made-to-order by the specific retailer, and in this case I know there weren't too many of the Freeflow ones made since they went under reasonably soon afterwards. The Freeflows are pretty old compared to some of the other PL Shockers, and not many of the other old ones appeared for too long since they didn't have too many upgrades (unlike the newer ones which are all stocked out of the box).
Anyway, hope that helped.
-from Andrew "Ydna" DuBuc - [ZDSPB.com]
From: Danny G.
Hey I have a shocker nxt and it isnt very acurate or consistent. I shoot and each ball just curves up down left and right, and it begins to do that like at 25feet. Thats really close. How far is this gun really supose to shoot? Can you let me know, and what should I do for it to be consistent and accurate? What should my dwell and and psi and and other stuff should be at for it to be really good? Any good board settings? I just want it to be accurate and consistent after each ball? Please help.
Well, the first thing that comes to mind is that both inaccuracy and bad consistency are problems that come up when the regulator is dirty. The reg is also the most common cause for consistency issues so I wouldn't be surprised if that was the case here. And then when the velocities get inconsistent, the accuracy ends up going bad at the same time.
I'd definitely suggest cleaning the reg and giving it a good once-through regreasing, and see what happens at that point. The stock regs should be able to provide you with reasonable consistency and very fast recharge too, so if it's not working right then the base seal may have gone bad and would need to be flipped (or replaced if damaged on the other side too). If you need a guide for this then check this page for info: zdspb.com/tech/mguide/regs/main_ionreg.html
-from Andrew "Ydna" DuBuc - [ZDSPB.com]
From: Bo C.
I currently have a V3 Stinger bolt for my shocker SFT (03 open body) and am not liking the firing can because of the side o-rings. I was wondering if I could replace the V3's stock firing can with the one listed below.
link
Thanks for your help.
That will indeed work, but you should be warned that it's pretty much the same thing as the stock fire chamber. It's got some subtle machining differences compares to the SP version, but the overall performance is virtually the same. I know what you mean about the side o-rings though. They can be a hassle...
-from Andrew "Ydna" DuBuc - [ZDSPB.com]
From: sag321
I am having problems with my shockers board. The first time I used it it wasn't working correctly. I opened it to troubleshoot and the power switch was broken. I received the new one I had e-mailed you about earlier. After installation of the new power switch, it worked for a few minutes and then the board went crazy again. Now it turns on/off whenever I plug the battery in. I checked the harnesses for bent pins and the board etchings for damage and everything looks okay. I resoldered the power switch on again and the problem persists. I have only ever used the shocker once when I bought it used and it acted haywire before the power switch broke so I am not sure what the problem is, just that it is electrical. Could I send you both boards along with the attached solenoid so you could try to diagnose the problem? The shocker working is only worth about $200 today and buying a new upper board, lower board, and solenoid make it impossible to justify buying. Any help would be appreciated, I really want to get this gun working for once. Thank you for reading my long e-mail, let me know if you are able to help me.
hmmm, odd problem. As the website suggests I have seen it a few times, it's usually caused by the powerswitch, but since you said you replaced it I'm thinking something else. There are other possible causes but they're sooo unlikely that it's almost not worth mentioning (paint splatter on the board, etc).
-from Andrew "Ydna" DuBuc - [ZDSPB.com]
From: Linga E.
Hi I have a shocker sft with a vision board, and the eye is off....how can I turn it on? I'm from norway and I'm not god in English :P can you plaez help me ! :)
As long as the marker has a Vision board, you should be able to push the power button once (the board will beep) and it'll switch to eyes-on. It only has two modes, eyes-on and eyes-off.
If you try that and the eyes don't seem to be working, it either means you have a non-Vision board, or the eyes might be damaged somehow.
-from Andrew "Ydna" DuBuc - [ZDSPB.com]
From: Spawn
I was wondering if you could post a video or a How-to for the Shocker NXT Octane Bolt assembly. It looks different from the other bolts you have listed and all the manual says is "grease liberally" which I also think is stupid because it makes you feel like your over greasing even though I know you say thats very difficult, it would help a bunch if you could post something thanx
Setup: Octane Shockert NXT, CP Regulator, Laser Eyes, Russion Legion Board
The bolt is more or less the same as the regular HE bolt so the information out there for the HE bolt will also work with the octane version. That is unless you're using an NDZ part or something...but even then the NDZ internals are also very similar (they look different but use the same design and principals).
There are some tech videos floating around on my site's maintenance page and youtube that describe the process to further depth...I don't go into the level of grease too much but there are some pics of it. You just have to remember it's better to overgrease than to undergrease.
-from Andrew "Ydna" DuBuc - [ZDSPB.com]
From: Michael S.
Hey YDNA,
I have yet another question for you about my '06 SFT. I have been continually experiencing fsdo and now have a new issue. I know my board needs to see the balls go into the breech to allow it to fire on "eyes on", but lately it seems to be not recognizing the ball right off. I have to switch off eye mode, take a few shots, then switch the eyes back on. Long story short, I think the stock board and eyes just suck. I'm considering buying an aftermarket board and Punisher's has quite a few on sale.
1) which board would be best? (I am looking at the Dynasty 6.1 link seems to be a helluva deal)
2) would a new board help with fsdo?
3) would break beam eyes be better?
4) what would you charge to install the board and eyes (including millwork) and get the gun set up? (adjust settings, etc.)
5) could I have the parts shipped from Punisher's to you and send my marker seperately?
Thanks for your time.
That's a great deal there, but unfortunately there's a catch....the 6.1 boards are the previous hardware version of the tadao boards, and they can't be upgraded to the newest programming (M7). The newest programming happens to have some of the best eye detection settings available, but it's due to some hardware changes that tadao switched.
-from Andrew "Ydna" DuBuc - [ZDSPB.com]
From: J. Kell
Hey hows it going wondering if it is possible to have you flash my shocker sft board (nerve) so i can have anti fsdo and better eye logic. It has trouble reading some paint can i make it more sesnitive, and if posible how much would this cost and how long would it take.
Thanks
J Kell
Unfortunately the SP boards are actually locked so only they can reflash them. At the moment they aren't offering an upgrade service for the stock boards but it's being planned for future release....sometime in the future.
Generally when most people run into eye issues (or settings issues, like you mentioned) they elect to get one of the many aftermarket boards that are available. All of them tend to increase the reliability of the eye system, except the Blackheart upgrade board from SP direct (virtually the same eye programming) but all the non-SP ones work a bit better. They also offer added adjustments, modes, etc. The board will cost you $100 or more but it's likely to be a good investment.
-from Andrew "Ydna" DuBuc - [ZDSPB.com]
From: Andres G.
Ok, I recently bought a dynasty shocker with a 7th element board but when I got it the eyes didn't work it would do the first forced shoot then stop shooting with double blinking green lights indicatoring eye malfunction. I first assumed it was the eye ribbon and tested it on out on my 2 other shockers and a spare eye ribbon that i had laying around. It still didn't work and then I started changing part thinking it was the dynasty shocker I changed wire harness, solenoid just to make sure but still the eyes wouldnt registar. When ever i use my Predator board,Tadeo , or nerve the eyes do registar when using any other gun but as soon as the 7th element board is in it doesnt work. Now I called 7th element up and had my board replaced with a new one that i recieved today. The board when eyes are on does not the detect balls but still shoots slowly when eyes are on which is something the old 7th element board didnt do. The setting are correct and i change the eye setting and few other setting just to make sure. I was wondering if anyone can help me on this because i am completely stumped.
That's definitely an odd problem. I can tell you that the board shooting slowly with eyes on probably points to the board thinking the eyes are being blocked continuously, which could be any number of connection or eye probelms (alignment, etc). Have you tried any of the other boards in the marker since receiving the board back from 7th? I'd try one or two others just to make sure the hardware is working with those other ones.
I'm not extremely familiar with the 7th element boards yet, but if there's an eye sensitivity setting then you can try toning that down and it might help. If there isn't one try switching to the other eye sense (between beam-break or reflective eyes). If that doesn't do it then I'm not sure what would...might point to some sort of faulty programming although that's probably a bit unlikely since you just received it back. I've seen it happen before though so you never know.
-from Andrew "Ydna" DuBuc - [ZDSPB.com]
From: Michael I.
Hello,
You have helped me in the past, and I was wondering if you can work your magic again.
I have 2006 SFT vision Shocker that is stock except for a Blackheart board. I shut the marker off between rounds, gassed up, turned on the marker, it shoots once and then it shoots like I am low on air. I have cleaned and regreased. I also changed the battery with no luck. Is it a reg problem? Do I need to rebuild and clean it?
Thanks
Mike I.
Well, a rebuild of the bolt's moving o-rings would probably be my next step. Sometimes they will wear out and cause internal leaking, which you can't discern from the outside of the marker, making it hard to narrow down. But a few of those situations can cause dropoff (in this case more like stiction, but same issue really).
It could be a solenoid thing but that's less likely. You could give the solenoid spool a good once-through just to be sure, if you wanted.
-from Andrew "Ydna" DuBuc - [ZDSPB.com]
From: Michael I.
Andy, thanks for the quick reply. Right after I sent you the email, I cleaned, lubed, and replaced all of the o-rings in the Max-Flo and the marker works now. I assume the piston would stick after firing once.(?)
Different subject. Do you like Slick Honey as a lube? I started using it with my son's DM8 (he had to switch to Dye when he got "drafted" by a Dye sponsored team.) I've been able to turn the lpr down to 1/2 of the manual recommendation without FSDO.
Thanks again
Mike I.
I don't like slick honey myself because I find it a pain to apply, the more traditional dow greases wipe off easily but slick honey doesn't come off without a washing. In terms of performance it seems to do the job okay, for the most part anyway, but there are occasional times when I'll receive a marker saturated with honey and it's taken its tole on the o-rings pretty badly...they seem to stiffen out after a very long period of time. I clean off and grease with something more traditional and it takes care of it.
-from Andrew "Ydna" DuBuc - [ZDSPB.com]
From: Matt S.
I have a question for you, lets say I have a gutted out free flow shocker body and frame what all would I need to restore the gun as far as internals go? I know most of the major parts such as a bolt, upper board with a noid along with a lower board but what else is there? If you could help me out that would be great.
Matt.
Here's a quick list...
- complete bolt assembly
- solenoid manifold with o-rings and screws
- solenoid/upper board, screws
- solenoid inserts with o-rings (if the body doesn't have them already)
- vertical adapter, screw, o-ring, washer
- vision eye cover, detents, eye screw, and the eye itself (assuming you want to use eyes)
- lower board, board pins (2)
- trigger, trigger pin
- power switch actuator button, also a pin for this too
-from Andrew "Ydna" DuBuc - [ZDSPB.com]
From: Matt B.
Hey I got an evil detonator reg for my shocker, but the hole on top of the piston that air flows through (in the reg) gets blocked by the allen screw that holds the vertical adapor on, cutting off air flow.
Any idea on how I can get around this? maybe use a different screw to hold the vert adaptor on?
hah, I know exactly what you mean, I've seen this in the past. You can use another screw but you'd have to find one out there. Lucky paintball used to sell them although they're gone now.
What you need is a 1/4-28 threaded screw, half an inch long, with a low profile socket head. Normally these are sold as "socket head cap" screws which use the large 3/16" allen wrench and tall head (the stock screw), but you can get them with shorter heads that use a 1/8" allen wrench. You have to be more careful about tightening them since the allen wrench is smaller, but it shouldn't be a problem.
-from Andrew "Ydna" DuBuc - [ZDSPB.com]
From: Ben R.
I have a sft shocker w/predator board and evolve bolt...can't get it to ramp. I can get it to go to rebound mode. I just changed bolts...the previous bolt ramped. any ideas? If I need to send it in somewhere at this point I'm ready to.
Ben R.
Perrysville, OH
It sounds like the bolt may need a good cleaning, or preferably a rebuild of its moving o-rings. The Evolve bolts can be temperamental in terms of their inside-grooves for o-rings (the spots that hold size 17 o-rings, such as in the fire chamber) but usually it doesn't impede performance at all. They also require higher dwell settings so when in doubt set the dwell higher than needed, it'll work just fine that way (shouldn't be any less efficient or anything).
-from Andrew "Ydna" DuBuc - [ZDSPB.com]
From: Glenn G.
If I am using the ndz v3, would there be any difference in performance, shot count, ect if I use the sp can or the ndz can?
If it's the closed fire chamber (made for the NXT bodies) then there's pretty much no difference. The old v3 fire chambers, that used the side o-rings, those will lower the operating pressure but the overall performance is similar.
-from Andrew "Ydna" DuBuc - [ZDSPB.com]
From: w/h
Can you tell me why my bolt guide wont screw in all the way?
mirrored link to picture
It might mean the threads in the body (or on the bolt guide) are damaged and preventing it from screwing past them. Hopefuly that isn't the case though because it's very difficult to fix, sometimes unrepairable short of replacing the body...so you should take the bolt guide out and try to clean the threads really good inside the body to make sure there isn't any dirt or debris in there blocking things...
-from Andrew "Ydna" DuBuc - [ZDSPB.com]
From: busta1016
As you seem to be the shocker god I figured maybe you could help me wiht my marker, as I am sure that you have encountered similar problems. I have a Shocker SFT with Ape Rampage board in it. When I switched to the rampage board the gun will statrt firing as soon as I air it up. me and my local marker tech (guy who works at the paintball shop) tried adjusting the trigger and setting both the trigger debounce and anti mechanical bounce to the maximum setting. We played with the upper screw on the trigger as well which would stop it from shooting as soon as I aired up but if I started any kind of rapid firing the gun would continue to shoot without pulling the trigger. I have read both your website and the forums and I am stumped? I know there is only so much you can do with out seeing the gun but any Ideas?
Typically things like this are caused by the trigger but often you should be able to figure out if it's problematic without much effort. Really bouncey triggers are often VERY light in pull, such as not using anything to return the trigger (no magnet or spring). Extremely heavy triggers can also cause similar problems although it's not as common.
The bounce settings on the board would definitely cause it, but if you're sure you have them set correctly (if not max'ed out) then that's probably not the case....at least not without assuming the board programming is defective.
-from Andrew "Ydna" DuBuc - [ZDSPB.com]
From: Scott S.
Could you send me a video or something to show me what I am supposed to lube on my nxt shocker. I know I have to lube the bolt/other bolt relater things.
Yes, actually I have a 10 minute long video that shows the disassembly, cleaning, reassembly, and rebuild process (for some of the marker) which you can find on this page here: zdspb.com/tech/mguide/shockersft/maintenance_bolt_he.html (scroll down to the bottom of the page). I've also reposted that video on youtube if you prefer to stream it...search for the youtube channel "ydna2" and you can find me.
-from Andrew "Ydna" DuBuc - [ZDSPB.com]
From: Scott S.
I need help making my shocker better on air, its a 07 Octane NXT, it has a cp reg and he bolt(stock), dwell is at factory setting, stock board. I don't know any other info you may need. But I only get about a hopper and 3-4 pods off a 3000 fill (my tank is 68/45). Can you help me out please?
From a 3000-psi fill, the number of shots you're getting is what I would describe as the low end of the "regular" window for efficiency. Usually I estimate most markers getting around 650-700 from a 68/3000, of course you're not getting that much, but I've seen worse (lol).
That said, often the first thing I suggest with efficiency issues is to rebuild the bolt's moving o-rings. The main o-rings include the 16/70 on the bolt, and the rear 17/70 inside the fire chamber...both of those are very important in the marker functioning well, so they can cause all sorts of little issues if either of them leak.
-from Andrew "Ydna" DuBuc - [ZDSPB.com]
From: Antonio
Do you guys know if the thead from a SFT and NXT solenoid inserts are the same? Because they say that the SFT are discontinued. Thank you.
Yep they're the same thing, although they actually changed the color of the solenoid inserts...not that it matters heh.
-from Andrew "Ydna" DuBuc - [ZDSPB.com]
From: Will M.
I am looking to buy a hybrid sft shocker, but it dosent have the hybrid frame, do you know where I can get one or do you know if any of the nxt frames fit the sft.
The hybrid frames were actually manufacturered by hybrid themselves (whereas most other private label frames were made by SP) so you'll have to contact Hybrid to see if they have any available. I wouldn't get your hopes up though since I believe they stopped making them quite a while ago (back when the Hybrid SFTs were discontinued and replaced with the NXT version). But you never know what they have left over...
-from Andrew "Ydna" DuBuc - [ZDSPB.com]
From: John G.
Hello,
I am having some extremely frustrating issues with my shocker that has me considering a new marker unless I can resolve them, thus I hope you can help.
I own a 2k4 shocktech shocker sfl, it has EXTREMELY erratic velocity, it jumps from 96,390,234,178,250,254,290,359, 650 (although i'm sure this was a crono error)... I have taken the Super Charger bolt apart and replaced Every o-ring on it according to you spec diagrams, this has not helped. I have replaced the SFL breech o-ring also. I have attempted a reset of all the Russian Legion Virtue board settings back to factory, increased d-well to attempt to stabilize the velocity. None of which was successful.
took the reg and HPA tank and tested them on another SFT shocker with no issues at all, I did take the reg and clean it though as a concern. and tested again after.
I also tried a Vertical Maxflow instead of my stubby CP reg, the same issue persists.
This issues has been occurring since my turbo charger bolt shot the front bolt o-ring off, due to it being replaced with a 15/70 instead of a 15/90, I inspected the bolt for damage within 3 shots as the bolt was sticking and sounded very different. No physical damage is visible, the bolt slides with almost no effort in my hands with all parts together.
At this point I am at a loss, I hope you can help.
~John.
From your description it sounds like a solenoid issue. One way to put it would be to say the solenoid could cause all of the problems you've mentioned, although that type of situation is a bit less likely (usually the solenoid either "works or doesn't", not in between like this....but it's not unheard-of).
So I would definitely suggest cleaning your solenoid at least once if you haven't already done so. Even if you have cleaned it, the problem could be caused by some un-serviceable portion such as the solenoid's pilot valve. If that's the case then you unfortunately don't have much choice outside of swapping parts with a working solenoid to narrow the problem down...you probably don't have the parts spare to do that type of thing but it's almost the only option short of replacing the whole solenoid anew. Although that would probably take care of it too (just be quite expensive).
-from Andrew "Ydna" DuBuc - [ZDSPB.com]
From: Kyle K.
Hi my name is kyle.
I am inquiring you abut my parker solenoid. I removed the upper board from the noid and now I must solder it back I am told? I also must replace the power switch. Do you have any suggestive thoughts on doing this? I'll paypal you some money if you make a tutorial vid of you performing these tasks.
I actually do have a video for the powerswitch repair, not sure if you've seen it or not, but if not then check this page zdspb.com/tech/mguide/shockersft/trouble_powerswitch.html
As far as resoldering the upper board, essentially all you have to do is clean up the contacts and slide the board over the two terminals sticking up out from the top of the solenoid. Align the board so it's straight on top of the solenoid, then lay down some solder and you're done.
That's actually why I don't have much info about removal of the upper board, since it can be a tricky proceedure. I normally don't recommend it unless it's absolutely necessary.
-from Andrew "Ydna" DuBuc - [ZDSPB.com]
From: Josh D.
Hi,
I would like to order some of the led lights that you would put on a shocker board to change the color of the power button. Could you send me a paypal request for 2 of those in each color that you have? I would also like black screws for my shocker. could i get 4 of the black grip screws. I don't know if I need long or short, i'm using hogue grips(you can send a set of both if you need to). And if you have black grip frame screws, black s rail set screws or anything else I could use let me know.
If you could send a request for this stuff to me that would be cool
Thanks
*Joshua D.*
Rochester, NY
Yep I do have the individual LEDs available, I sell them for $1.25 each in all the colors I have, except for white. The white ones are SUPER expensive compared to the others so I have to sell them for $5 each. I rarely perform the mod with a white LED though.
I'll have to check my stock and see what I have available, not sure if I'm getting low on any since I haven't done the mod in a few weeks.
Anyways, for the screws unfortunately I don't have any Shocker frame screws at all (not in black or silver...lol) since they're actually a custom size that SP has made for them by a screw company. The Shocker NXT screws are different, I have those in silver, but the regular Shocker SFT screws are something I don't have.
For your hogue grips I'd suggest the "long" grip screws but you'll have to be careful with them. With all the hogue grips I've used in the past, the short screws weren't long enough unless the rubber was worn out, but the long ones could be overtightened and make a problem. So definitely no over-tightening with them, or you can stick little o-rings around the heads, or whatever works.
-from Andrew "Ydna" DuBuc - [ZDSPB.com]
From: Jordan G.
Well I've finally had a chance to shoot the shocker with good paint. Although the drop off was still there it wasnt as bad after I worked the settings alittle. Infact after buying a new case it worked flawlessly. I have 2 questions for you though. I read through your site a little more, and I'm wondering the mount that was behind the trigger, is that a stock piece on all shockers? I removed it and made my own delrin trigger and it had no effect on it so im assuming its ok to remove.
My second question is what kind of lube where you using on the shocker...hater or sleek?
The piece behind the trigger is called the trigger rest, it's a component that the NXT triggers use with their set screws such as the pre-travel and spring retension. But, as you found out, if you take it out you can still use the trigger okay, it's just you have to figure out a new way for post-travel, firing point, and pre-travel (if you even want). Myself I found the trigger rest component to be an unnecessary change from the Shocker SFT style adjustments since it just seems to reduce the availability of triggers on the gun.
Like you noted if you're messing round with your own triggers then it's not really needed it at all. The only thing it offers at that point is the spring trigger return, but with an 80-g trigger microswitch it's barely needed.
In terms of lubricant, I use dow33 or sl33k. I haven't personally found any benefits at all to other greases (only reasons not to use em) so I tend to ignore them.
-from Andrew "Ydna" DuBuc - [ZDSPB.com]
From: Jordan G.
Alrighty, I really appreciate the information, ive looked over your site and has tought me alot (its somthing I care to learn about) I am probably not going to be keeping the trigger, going to make one out of delrin myself. Ill email you again if i cannot fix the first shot drop off problem.
I was also speaking with my tech and he said that in general shockers are "o-ring eaters" and diagnosing a leak normally requires replacing all the orings if there isnt one clear cut broken one. I would assume that being true as most orings on the shocker act as seals, but unlike the pm8 I owned you could narrow down a leak as to where it was leaking from.
Thanks again. I really love learning about this stuff.
If you don't plan on keeping that trigger I'm sure you could sell it used for $20 or something. I can't even remember how many offers I had to part it out. I got it new in the box from a buddy of mine but didn't know they were sought-after for some reason.
-from Andrew "Ydna" DuBuc - [ZDSPB.com]
From: Mark O. (Baby Huey from the ZDS website banner picture)
Hey. How is the ZDS business? Two questions. Is the difference between the stock HE bolt that came in my NXT Ton Ton and the NOX bolt worth the $65? Also, man when is this Tadao board coming out?
Mark
I dunno....personally I like the NoX bolts since they're pretty well made, but they do have their own disadvantages too. For instance the lightweight polymer material usually works good but it's much, MUCH less reliable than regular heavy ole aluminum. The material can actually wear from regular use, although that doesn't often happen (only in situations where the marker's o-rings act oddly with the bolt).
Personally I don't like the price of $65 but really that's less a case of price-gouging and more a byproduct of the bolts being sold by a small company. It's a group of guys making them in batches of 100 or so. Essentially, if I were making them they'd probably cost the same...although I wouldn't like it!
-from Andrew "Ydna" DuBuc - [ZDSPB.com]
From: Kevin L.
I looked at your site, but I could not find what I wanted to know. I just bought an Dark Shocker of ebay, and sent it to SP to have it teched and servised. Now that I have it back which tank works best with it. I have a LP and HP 68/4500 tanks which is to be used with the shocker.
Thanks in advance.
HP tanks are generally suggested just out of compatibility with other markers, but an LP tank will work so long as the tank reg is fast enough. Most regs are indeed fast enough, but not all...those that are usually no problem include Pure energy, Guerilla Air, Crossfire, and some others. If yours isn't one of those then it may have issues with dropoff, but naturally the only way to definitively know is to try it out and see if there's any pressure dropoff, if not then you'll be good.
-from Andrew "Ydna" DuBuc - [ZDSPB.com]
From: Taylor J.
I have a few shocker related questions that I was hoping you could assist me with. Recently I stumbled across a V2 Evolve Bolt for sale...unfortunately it turns out that I sold my SFT shocker and only have an NXT. I was looking at your CAD files for the evolve v2 fire chamber and was wondering if you could assist me in figuring out if this would be compatible with a stock bodied NXT shocker. My concerns are a leaking out of the cuts in the body from the diagrams on your website on how the air seems to flow around the outside of the fire chamber.
In the event that the evolve fire chamber WOULD leak, would it be possible to use the Evolve V2 bolt guide, bolt and bolt sleeve with the stock NXT fire chamber? Any insight would be greatly appreciated! Thank you for your time!
You're right that it'll leak out the cuts in the NXT body....the Evovle v2's were designed back in the day for the regular ole SFT body milling (or no milling at all, if it were a private label body). At the moment there really aren't any considerable upgrades in terms of a bolt kit, there is the Nox bolt but it's just the bolt itself and is rather expensive. The NDZ bolts do roughly the same thing as the HE bolt from smart parts, just made a little bit differently.
Technically you could use the Evolve bolt except the fire chamber, but there wouldn't be any efficiency gains at all...it'd be like using one of the old stock bolts from the SFT days. So no real point in going that route.
-from Andrew "Ydna" DuBuc - [ZDSPB.com]
From: Nick F.
I read on your site that a dynasty shocker is a sealed body... Mine(2006) has a big hole in the top. I bought the ULP can only to discover this hole. No big deal to me, but thought I would point out what seems to be some miss information.
Please, correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't see how I could put that in wrong!
The "old" dynasty Shockers were closed body, but they switched to a new milling style around early 2006 which has the different pattern including the hole in the top. I see where you read it was closed on the website...on the firing assembly page. It appears I forgot to add the 06+ Dynasty as being milled. I'll correct that right now.
Hopefully you can get that fire chamber exchanged for a sealed one through wherever you bought it....sorry for the inconvenience here...
-from Andrew "Ydna" DuBuc - [ZDSPB.com]
