Morlock boards that ship from KM2 are flashed with this code described here, called Predator-Morlock. Standalone Predator code is installed onto Morlock boards that ship from TAG Sportz.
Note: This is the manual for the Predator-Morlock board. If you have the original Morlock, go here
This manual written by Ydna. Contact him at ydna@zdspb.com if you have any questions.
To turn on the marker, flip the power switch while not holding the trigger down. If successful, the LED will turn on and stay on. This means you are ready to fire.
Upon activation, the marker's anti-chop eyes (if equipped) will be on or off depending on what you last had them set to. When you turn the eyes on, there is no forced shot to clear the chamber; the board automatically knows the difference between a ball being loaded and a ball not being loaded.
Holding the trigger down for 3/4 of a second will force a shot if nothing has loaded.
| Eyes Enabled: | Eyes Disabled: | |
| Solid LED: | Ball loaded; ready to fire | No ball loaded |
| Blinking LED: | Eyes faulted | n/a |
With the Morlock board, you cannot fool the eyes by sticking your finger in and trying to click the solenoid. The software is designed to track the movements of the bolt from cycle to cycle...therefore if you try to fire the gun with no air, the board will assume the eyes are damaged and enable the board's fault mode, and blink the LED to signify this until you next boot the board. The prupose of the fault mode is to still allow you to fire the marker in the event that the eyes become damaged during a dame. Whil in fault mode the marker will fire with a cap of 9-bps.
You should expect approximately 15,000 shots from a single 9 volt alkaline battery. Lithium batteries will last longer.
Programming:
To adjust the board's settings, the two DIP switches on the surface of the board must both be off. With the DIP switches on, the marker will be set to whatever ROF you last had, and locked in whatever mode you have it set to in register 10 (see below). You will not be able to adjust any settings while the board is locked.
To enter the programming mode, turn the board on while holding down the trigger. The LED will blink then turn off. At this point you are expected to select a register. To do this, click the trigger the appropriate number of times corresponding to the desired register. Once you have selected a register, the LED will blink a certain number of times to tell you what the current setting is for that register. You then click the trigger for the new setting. If you accidentially selected the wrong register, simply turn the board off then back on again to continue programming. Once you have entered the new amount for a register, wait one second and the board will store the new setting then blink the LED twice. After the new setting has been stored, you return to the "main menu" where you can select another register to adjust.
If adjusting register 1 (firing mode) or 2 (burst mode), after you input the new setting the marker will exit programming mode and the gun will then be ready to fire (LED will remain on to signify ready to fire).
To reset the board to the factory defaults, turn it on while holding down the trigger for four seconds. The LED will then blink several times to signify the baord has successfully been reset.
Registers 1-2 are for firing modes; 3-7 are for timing; 8-11 are binaries for the board's options. Here is a quick reference for the registers and their functions...details for each register follow.
| Register: | Function: | Settings: |
| Fire mode | 1 for sniper | |
| 2 for autoresponse | ||
| 3 for fully-automatic | ||
| 4 for cocker | ||
| Burst mode | Number of shots per burst | |
| Solenoid one dwell | Solenoid one dwell time in milliseconds (10-ms default) | |
| Solenoid one holdoff | (Dual only) Solenoid holdoff time in milliseconds (10-ms default) | |
| Solenoid two dwell | (Dual only) Solenoid two dwell time in milliseconds (50-ms default) | |
| Maximum ROF | Maximum ROF setting in BPS (10-bps default) | |
| Eye delay | Eye delay time in milliseconds (10-ms default) | |
| Debounce setting | Debounce setting (10 default) | |
| Eyes on/off | 1 for eyes enabled | |
| 2 for eyes disabled (default) | ||
| Solenoid mode | 1 for single solenoid (default) | |
| 2 for dual solenoid | ||
| Eye sense | 1 for reflective | |
| 2 for beam-break (default) | ||
| Cocker mode length | 1 for 500-ms (default) | |
| 2 for forever | ||
| Beam-break eye test | sustained LED: eyes aligned and unblocked | |
| no LED: eyes misaligned or beam is broken |
Firing mode registers:
1-1. Sniper mode: For single solenoid markers, this is the same thing as semiauto. For dual, this is where the bolt will not recock until you release the trigger.
1-2. Autoresponse mode: Fires at the pull and release of the trigger.
1-3. Fully-automatic: Fully-automatic firing as long as the trigger is compressed.
1-4. Cocker mode: For single solenoid markers, this is the same thing as semiauto. For dual, this is where the bolt will stay open as long as the trigger is compressed.
2. Burst mode: Enter the number of shots for your burst. Select anything between 1 and 255 (a one-shot burst is obviously the same thing as semiautomatic). The marker will fire the number of shots if you hold the trigger down. If you release the trigger before all the shots have fired, the board will not fire the remaining shots.
Timing registers: (all timing registers are adjustable between 1 and 255 milliseconds)
3. Solenoid one dwell: Amount of time the first solenoid will remain open; this is the amount of time that the marker will release pressurized air to fire the paintball.
4. Solenoid one holdoff: Dual solenoid only. This is the amount of time between when the first solenoid closes and when the second opens; this is a critical amount which is used to control blowback. Too low a holdoff time will cause excess blowback.
5. Solenoid two dwell: Dual solenoid only. This is the amount of time the bolt will remain open, waiting for a ball to be loaded. Match the second solenoid dwell to however fast your hopper can load.
6. Maximum ROF: This is the maximum ROF setting, measured in balls-per-second. Simply click the trigger for your desired BPS.
7. Eye holdoff: Amount of time after the ball has been detected that the marker will fire. This ensures you won't chop due during that split-second between when the eyes detect the ball and when it actually clears the top of the bolt.
8. Debounce setting: Time interval of no trigger events whereby the board will then start accepting new trigger events. Setting lower debounce settings will increase the chance of trigger bounce.
Binary Registers:
After selecting any of the binary registers (8-11), the LED will blink twice. At this time you make your adjustment. After you make your adjustment to any of the binaries, the LED will blink three times to signify the new setting has been stored.
9. Eyes on/off: Enable or disable the eyes at any time using this register.
10. Solenoid mode: This depends on what type of gun you have; the number of solenoids used to complete one firing cycle for the marker.
11. Eye sense: This is the sense of voltage difference that will tell the board a new paintball is loaded and ready to fire. Your marker will only work with one eye sense if you have anti-chop eyes installed.
12. Cocker mode length: If you select "forever" for this register,the bolt will remain open as long as the trigger is compressed. if you select "500-ms" then the bolt will automatically close after half a second if you hold the trigger down for longer than that period of time. The blt remaining open indefinitely will drain the battery somewhat quickly.
Eye Test:
This can be used to test the performance of your eyes with paint.
For beam-break eyes, select register 13 with nothing in the breech. The LED will remain lit so long as the detector sees there is nothing in the chamber. If the LED doesn't lite, it could be becuase the eyes are misaligned.
For reflective eyes, select register 13 with a paintball in the chamber. The LED will remain lit so long as the ball is being "detected". If there is nothing in the chamber, or if the ball isn't being detected, the LED will not light. If it is then the detector is being jumped (most likely).
You may find programming the board and altering its settings difficult to do at first; if this is the case then simply practice until it comes easier.