The marker showed on this page is the first version King Cobra. There were two successive versions, with slightly different features. Notably, the second used a slightly different trigger assembly and an aluminum frame.
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The marker I have is pretty much stock except I use a purple acid wash drop forward from another gun. The threading on the stainless braided hose is unique so it will only connect to the vertical ASA mount. A gas-thru can be used but a different ASA would have to be used with it.
The other difference in my gun is that I use Dow33/ Shocker lube with it. The gun comes from the factory with a lubricant similar to Slick Honey (and clones) but I don't like that stuff so I cleaned it all off.
Removal of the frame, disconnecting the electronics, and removing the eyes/covers:
Removing the grip panel screws and taking off the grips will expose the electronics within the frame.
Unscrew the foregrip and disconnect the bottomline (if possible), to remove the parts. It will make disassembly easier.
Remove the battery and unplug the other connectors that attach to the board.
Remove the two frame screws and also the eye cover screws (all of these screws are metric). You won't be able to easily remove the frame while the eye covers are installed. Be aware that the ball detents and their respective springs will fall out without the eye covers holding them on.
Separate the frame from the body. You can optionally unplug the eyes from their daughterboard in the frame. Be gentle since the daughterboard femal connectors are angled and may bend (pictures of it can be found in the "reassembly" section lower down).
Disassembling the body, removing the solenoid and reg mount:
The body is held together by the eye covers, the other chevron-shaped silver pieces on the rear of the frame, and lastly by the solenoid screws. I suggest unscrewing the solenoid screws first, since they're most likely easier to damage if the force holding the body together is unbalanced.
Remove the two chevron-shaped clamps on each side of the body (a common screw holds them together).
Once the chevrons and solenoid are both removed, the two body parts will fall apart from oneanother.
You can also remove the front regulator mount by unscrewing the screw in the side of the body. It's not required but will lighten the load.
View of the bottom of the body parts. Be aware that there are a few seals holding the solenoid sections together, so don't loose them (they seem to stay into place well on their own, though).
View of the bottom of the upper board with the opposing side of the lower body on bottom.
View of the firing assembly within the upper body.
Firing assembly:
To remove the assembly, loosen the clamp from the top of the body to release it. The bolt is spring-loaded so it might push itself out once it disengages, but if it doesn't just pull it out via the convenient knob on the rear of the bolt housing.
View of the firing assembly after being removed.
Use a flat-head screwdriver through the back to adjust this screw that will adjust the velocity by limiting the movement of the firing poppet (screw in for less velocity, out for more).
Removing the knob portion of the assembly reveals the velocity adjusting screw. It is fitted with a spring to keep it taught.
The brass firing poppet is visible down within the housing [when the knob is removed].
Firing poppet removed. There is a polymer (urethane, or some such thing) seal around the front which should be kept clean.
When reinstalling the poppet, push it as far forward as possible or the marker might leak next time you air it up.
Regulator:
Front regulator mount (assembled) on the left; vertical adapter [removed] on the right; vertical adapter screw on the far right. It's got a filter to keep things out.
Removing the set screw (metric) in the side of the reg mount will allow you to remove the endcap (matching ano piece), exposing these other parts. The brass adjuster in the front will control the reg output (screw in for less, out for more)
The piston is visible down within the housing/mount.
On the other end, the reg seat can be seen; this is removed using a flathead screwdriver.
Reg seat removed.
The piston can't be separated from the base seat without special tools (it's not meant to be user serviceable).
When reassembling the regulator, you will need to air the marker up without the endcap installed. Then, screw the endcap onto the front of the reg and watch the gauge for the point when the pressure starts to increase. When it increases above 0-psi, stop screwing the endcap and instead lock it into its current position with the small set screw. If you install the endcap all the way onto the front of the reg, the piston won't be able to move forward far enough to close the reg and it will essentially bypass (putting tank pressure into the gun, BAD).
Here's a diagram of the regulator. Again, it's a floating poppet type reg, so the adjustment is screwed in for more pressure and out for less. It's a more compact version of other floating poppet regs.
Solenoid:
Solenoid assembly as it comes off the body.
These parts are easily removed if you try. They are all magnetized and will hold onto each other when idle.
I don't know if the solenoid can be disassembled further, I haven't tried since I don't want to break it.
Frame reassembly:
Start by reinstalling the eyes into the eye board in the top of the frame.
Views of the eye board in the frame.
Once the eyes are plugged in, thread the other two wire pigtails back through the frame, and assemble it to the body. Make sure the wires wrap around the capacitor correctly so nothing is obviously going to be crimped when the frame goes back to the body.
Reinstall the eye covers and the frame screws (either order) and plug the connectors back where they go. Don't forget the detents and their springs.
Electronics:
View of the board in the frame.
Right side of the board, where the majority of the components lie.
Left side of the board, for the connectors, microcontroller, buttons, and other large items.
Half-complete circuit schematic, I never got around to finishing it.
