This is an image-intensive page with descriptions and other text. The pictures will pop-out and automatically resize to your screen. If you want to see the original pictures, right-click on the picture thumbnail and open it in a new window/tab. This should allow you to view the full size pictures. Complete disassembly of the entire marker as shown here isn't necessitated during normal conditions.
Bolt Assembly & Regular maintenance:
The first part of most markers is the firing assembly located within the body. This is the main area that requires regular maintenance during regular use. Crossovers use a similar valve system as the X7 Phenom (called Tippmann Flexvalve) which is generally easier to maintain compared to the older hammer/valve designs that Tippmann has used in the past.
To remove the firing assembly, unscrew it from the back of the marker using a 3/16" allen key. The whole assembly will come out once its threads disengage.
The firing valve is accessible by disassembling the housing. First unscrew the silver powertube section on the front by inserting a 1/2" open-faced wrench onto the flats located around the powertube, then use your 3/16" allen key through the back of the assembly to unscrew the two apart from one-another. Do not use pliers on the powertube because you will scratch it and cause bolt damage. The next step is to remove the roll-pin that connects the two remaining housing sections together. To push the pin out you'll need to squeeze the housing components together with one hand then push the pin out using a small tool. When the two housing pieces separate, the firing poppet is visible inside along with its spring and a bumper o-ring.
A light coating of grease should be applied to the valve poppet, and you should clean out any dirty grease from the internals. During reassembly, inspect the outside of the powertube for any metal burrs before reinstalling the bolt. This could have happened during disassembly if your 1/2" wrench marred the surface of the powertube. If you find any burrs, they can be carefully removed using a metal hand file.
Body Disassembly:
Another section of the marker that tends to accumulate debris are the eye covers and detents located on either side of the marker body. To clean these, use a 1/16" allen key to unscrew the eye cover screws holding them onto the body. Beneath the eye covers are the eyes and the orange anti-rollback detent. Any internal paint splatter may seep into this area so it should be kept clean. The eye elements will simply pop out from the body but you should use care to avoid damaging the lenses.
The foregrip handle simply screws into the marker body but it can be adjusted depending on the foregrip orientation. To adjust it, use a 3/16" allen key to loosen the internal screw up through the bototm.
The marker's feedneck is a molded plastic collar which is secured in place by a cam-action lever. After loosening the cam screw you can free up enough of the collar to remove it from the feedneck base. The feedneck itself is threaded into the marker body but shouldn't need to be removed.
Frame Disassembly:
Remove the grip panels to disassemble the marker further. When they come off you have access to the circuit board, battery, and fire mode switch.
The frame is held onto the marker body by two screws and the mode switch. The mode switch can be quickly removed by turning it further clockwise (to the 4 o'clock position) then sliding it out from its hole in the frame. Afterwards, remove the two cap screws holding the frame onto the body, then the two can be gently separated from one-another.
The mode switch slips through a square hole in the back of the trigger in order to create the mechanical safety system. The trigger doesn't use a sear, rather it uses a small lever component called the trigger linkage to actuate a small pneumatic valve to fire the marker. Down within the frame, the solenoid armature does the same job by actuating the trigger linkage from behind. The system is similar to that of the AGD E-Mag although the difference is the Mag had a "hybrid" firing mode that used the electronics trigger to fire but mechanical sear to reset during each shot. Crossovers can't offer this feature because their firing valves are smaller in shape.
Back down in the bottom of the frame, the electronics can now be removed. The board is held in place using three phillips-head screws on the right side. The Crossover button/LED pad on the frame's spine can also be removed, this time by pushing out the two roll pins located in the back of the frame. There's a third roll pin which holds the frame's air pipe in place; this can also be removed to free up the air pipe.
The board is still connected by the eye ribbon and solenoid connector. The board can be competely separated by unplugging these two connectors. I've yet to actually do this so I will update the page when I get around to a full disassembly.
Regulator:
The bottomline regulator is removed by loosening the two cap screws located within the battery compartment. When the screws are free, the regulator can be gently pulled down and off the bottom air pipe. I'm also showing a picture of how the Nummech drop forward is attached to the marker, via a small air coupling that performs the same job as the air pipe on the bottom of the drop forward.
I have yet to disassemble the regulator; I'll update this page when I perform a complete disassembly.
Trigger Valve Disassembly:
The underside of the body contains the trigger firing valve, which is used to direct pressurized air to actuate the firing poppet up in the marker body. It can be removed using a 1/8" allen key. The valve housing forms a connection with the marker body using three small o-rings. You can clean off any excess grease from these o-rings, but they should be kept moist so they can form a good pressure-seal.
The trigger and linkage are held in place using small roll pins, which can be pushed out from the valve housing. The linkage is used to actuate a small firing poppet (confusingly called the trigger pin in the Crossover manual). By removing the brass hex screw you can access the valve's internals. The small steel poppet/pin comes out first, which must be CAREFULLY pulled out since it's so small and fragile. Deeper inside are a pair of o-rings with a brass ring located in between.
Trigger upgrade: (late2013 / early2014)
Tippmann released a factory-upgrade trigger replacement in late 2013. The change is mostly with the magnet used to fire the marker; the new trigger uses a plastic "shoe" to hold the magnet, which is more flexible and easier to adjust. The triggers also come with a ligher spring which is red in color, unlike the old trigger springs which are silver. The other noticeable change is that the trigger pin now rides on a silver bushing, likely a move to reduce trigger wear in mechanical mode.
